The Tarn is perfect if you’re looking for a peaceful getaway with stunning countryside, charming medieval villages, and a way of life that has remained unchanged for centuries (except you can now get a decent coffee). You’ll indulge in fine food, local wines, and even whisky here! Highlights include the UNESCO City of Albi, its remarkable cathedral, and the picturesque hilltop village of Cordes-sur-Ciel. This Tarn Guide offers plenty to see, do, and love, from breathtaking skywalks to cultural treasures like the Goya Museum. Let us guide you on the perfect trip!
Where is the Tarn?
The Tarn department is located in Occitanie, southwest France. It is named after the Tarn River, which flows through the area. While you may not be so familiar with the Tarn, you certainly know Toulouse to the West and Carcassonne to the South. The region is easily accessible from Toulouse, making it a terrific destination for those looking to explore the beauty of rural France while still being within reach of the city lights.
To learn more about the surrounding departments, see Slow Travels through the hidden surprises of Haute Garonne and Roadtripping Tarn and Garonne.
Who will enjoy the Tarn?
Many different visitors would appreciate the Tarn. This region appeals to travellers who enjoy a blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. The department might not make the itinerary for an introductory trip to France but is more for those who already know and love France and are looking to extend their travels.
It’s an ideal destination for :
History and Culture Enthusiasts
Tarn is rich in medieval architecture, with highlights like Albi’s UNESCO-listed cathedral and the hilltop village of Cordes-sur-Ciel. These offer a glimpse into France’s past; they are real step back in time destinations, where you feel transported to a bygone era.
Lovers of Scenic Countryside
The Tarn’s rolling hills, vineyards, and rivers provide a peaceful backdrop for those who appreciate nature and pretty landscapes.
Foodies and Wine Lovers
Tarn is known for fine gastronomy, local wines, and even has whisky. It offers foodies and wine enthusiasts a taste of authentic French cuisine and regional specialities.
Art and Museum Aficionados
Visitors can explore the Goya Museum in Castres or the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum in Albi, both offer world leading collections.
Outdoor Adventurers
The region is perfect for hiking, cycling, and exploring rural trails. The Tarn’s natural beauty allows for plenty of outdoor activities.
Yes, I walked across the Mazamet Skywalk!
Slow Travelers
Those seeking an “away-from-it-all” experience, immersing themselves in local traditions and peaceful villages, and leisurely exploring will find the Tarn a worthwhile investment of time.
Wellness Escapes
It seems the Tarn area has a growing number of options for those looking to combine a wellness stay and enjoy the tranquillity of the area. We’ll share more about Chateau de Fiac by The Pavilions below, where you can find a wellness stay at a French chateau.
In short, Tarn is for anyone who appreciates a slow pace, authentic experiences, and the beauty of rural France.
Suggested Itinerary for The Tarn
Below is our itinerary in the region. We spent one night in Mazamet before spending three nights in Albi. This itinerary gives you three days to explore the Tarn villages and countryside and full days and evenings in Albi. You could easily stay longer for extra time exploring Albi or extend to enjoy a wellness retreat.
Day One: Mazamet ~ Hautpoul
Day Two: Castres & Goya Museum & Lautrec
Day Three: Wandering Albi
Day Four: Cordes-sur-Ciel, wine, olive oil and whisky
Day Five: Continue with the Circuit of the Bastides, including Puycelsi, the woodland fortress.
Day Six: Optional extension: Lac de Saint Ferreol
Day One: Mazamet ~ Hautpoul
Tarn’s Natural Wonders
Tarn offers abundant outdoor activities, including the Passerelle de Mazamet skywalk, one of our most memorable nature adventures.
Mazamet
Mazamet has a rich history; however, nowadays, it is a rather sleepy town whose claim to fame and tourism interest primarily arises from a mega suspension bridge—the biggest Himalayan-style bridge in France. However, it is worth a wander. You can take a self-guided historic walking tour: Mazamet “in run of wool,” and do pop in to see the impressive frescos in Saint-Sauveur church.
The Cathar Museum is housed in a beautiful 19th-century home. It has good reviews of a fascinating and black chapter in history: ‘Follow the thread of history and follow in the footsteps of the good Cathar men and women, discovering their history, their beliefs and rituals.‘
Website: www.museeducatharisme
Mazamet Footbridge – la Passerelle de Mazamet
Getting to the bridge
From Mazamet: First, you must hike up to the starting point. It is a beautiful 1.5 km walk through the pretty woodlands and Courmouls Houles Gardens, which dates from the mid-19th century.
There are two routes to arrive at the bridge:
Red Route (Piste Rouge)
We chose the 20-minute challenging steep climb. That was the first time my heart was racing. I can tell you that it beat pretty fast later as I crossed that bridge too!
Blue Route (Piste Bleue)
The second option, which is longer with less incline, was a perfect choice for our descent, and we had plenty of time to stop and admire the views.
Walking the suspension bridge
The 140-meter-long suspension bridge across the Arnette Valley soars 70 meters above the ground—take it from me, that’s high and more than a little challenging for a wimp like me. It connects to the medieval hilltop village of Hautpoul, where inviting restaurants, cold drinks, and ice cream await.
We arrived late on a quiet Sunday afternoon, and I was very happy to find no one else around. I wasn’t keen on anyone else bouncing along behind me!
How are you with heights?
Mr Wren skipped across easily, calling it “cool” while I was firmly on the team, terrified. Tarn Tourism suggested this thrilling activity, so I felt compelled to give it a go. After 20 steps, I gingerly turned back. However, I knew I’d regret it, so I retraced my steps and kept going. I wobbled through and made it across. My heart’s still racing just writing this! The only catch? I had to cross it again to return!
The thrill was worth it, and maybe next time, I’ll even look around—Mr. Wren swears the view is amazing!
Can you believe that this breathtaking suspension bridge experience is free?
More details
Website: www.tourisme-tarn.com/passerelle-de-mazamet
Hautpoul Medieval Village
The medieval village of Hautpoul is worth a wander for those who love picturesque hilltop villages. Legend suggests it was built by a Visigoth King in 413 and found on a rocky peak of the Montagne Noire.
Hautpoul occupies an important place in the territory’s history of Catharism and the wars between Catholics and Protestants.
Getting to Hautpoul
Talk about an off-the-beaten-track location. To arrive, you either need to take the Passerelle de Mazamet or drive.
Arriving by Road
Arriving by road from Mazamet, it is a 10-minute drive to the car park outside the village. You walk uphill for about 500m to the start of the town. You’ll go past the medieval ruins of the Château de Hautpoul, a ruined Medieval Cathar Castle.
You can read more here in this excellent brochure: www.catharcastles.info/hautpoul
Today, you’ll find a picturesque medieval garden, a couple of craft shops and some restaurants.
Where to eat
La Taverne d’Hautpoul
This choice has a lovely back terrace, stunning views, and good reviews if you want a meal. However, if you want just a drink, you will not be allowed to sit there even when the entire place is empty. The owner is entitled to her rules, but it doesn’t encourage you to return later for a meal.
You can check out all the reviews here in the Trip Advisor reviews
Les Terrasses d’Hautpoul
As we skipped back down the hill, this casual Terrasse with its lovely views was a popular choice.
You can read the Trip Advisor reviews here.
Maison du Bois et du Jouet
As you drive back towards Mazamet, you will come across a sign for Maison du Bois et du Jouet, a toy shop offering wooden toys with some lovely Christmas decorations and an outdoor play area. While we were there, it was full of children attending a summer school. There is a play area for children and a picnic spot, which is great for families.
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Sidobre Massif is a unique geological formation home to a collection of massive granite boulders scattered across the forested hills. Hiking trails wind through this surreal landscape, making it a popular spot for walking and exploring.
The Gorges du Tarn offer another stunning natural attraction. Their dramatic cliffs and winding rivers are perfect for canoeing, kayaking, or simply enjoying a peaceful riverside picnic. The lush greenery and serene environment make the Tarn a haven for outdoor enthusiasts.
Day Two: Castres & Goya Museum & Lautrec
Art and History
Castres – Venice of France
Castres is 30 minutes from Mazamet, a town of art and history known by sports fans worldwide for its rugby team, Castres Olympique. The colourful houses along the River Agout give it the name of the Little Venice of Languedoc.
Goya Museum
The Goya Museum or Musée Goya is France’s most important Hispanic art museum after the Louvre. The collection dates from antiquity to the present day and is not to be missed if you are in the area. It’s in a beautiful setting in the former 17th Century Bishop’s Palace.
We enjoyed our wander through the twenty rooms, where you can take a self-guided tour to find a handful of Goya paintings, etchings, and Picasso artwork.
More details
Address: Rue de Hôtel de Ville – BP 10406, 81108 Castres
Costs: €9 per adult, no special rates for seniors. Free 1st Sunday of the month from 1st September to 30 June, free for European Night of Museums and European Heritage Days
AudioGuide €3 For lots of information, we’d recommend an Audioguide.
Website: www.museegoya.fr
Boat trip
A popular activity is to take a one-hour return trip on the wooden Le Miredames boat to Gourjade Park.
More information on the city at www.tourismtarn/castres
We had a very pleasant afternoon visiting the museum, wandering through its colourful streets, and enjoying afternoon tea beside the river. It’s a good place for a two or three-hour stop-off.
Lautrec
Lautrec, another charming village, is known for its distinctive pink garlic, which has been cultivated here for centuries. Stroll through the village’s medieval streets,
Day Three: Wandering Albi
Albi UNESCO World Heritage Site
In 2010, Albi’s Episcopal City was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and as soon as you take a wander, it’s easy to see why. The stunning combination of its medieval past and well-preserved architectural treasures create an experience that transports you back in time. Read on to discover a synopsis of what to see, do and love in our Albi City Guide.
Your complete Guide to Albi is found here in our previous post: Discovering Amazing Albi France.
Cathedral of Sainte-Cécile
At the heart of Albi, you can not miss the imposing Gothic Cathedral of Sainte-Cécile, one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. The dramatic cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Albi and is, according to locals, the largest building made entirely of brick in the world.
Musee Toulouse-Latrec
The Toulouse-Lautrec Museum is housed in the splendid Palais de la Berbie, an ancient bishop’s palace adjacent to the cathedral. Most people assume that Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, the post-impressionist painter, was an out-and-out Parisien, but in fact, he was born in Albi, and the most extensive collection of his sparkling work is held there.
Jardin du Palais de la Berbie
Do not miss the Jardin de la Berbie, a stunning formal garden behind the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum. The meticulously manicured gardens offer a tranquil retreat with breathtaking views of the Tarn River below and the rolling hills of the Tarn region.
We loved Albi It is more than just a pretty medieval town; it’s a destination that combines rich history, art, and natural beauty. Whether you’re exploring its majestic cathedral, delving into the works of Toulouse-Lautrec, or simply wandering its cobbled streets, Albi leaves a lasting impression.
Day Four: The scenic villages of Tarn
Beyond Albi, the Tarn region is dotted with picturesque villages. Our favourites were Cordes sur Ciel, Puycelsi and Hautpoul, all perched on a hilltop, with a step back in time to medieval days feel. They offer breathtaking views of the surrounding Tarn countryside. With narrow, cobbled streets lined with artisan shops and galleries, they are a joy to wander!
Cordes sur Ciel
It’s a 30-minute drive from Albi to the Vallée du Cérou and the medieval village of Cordes sur Ciel. This is part of the Circuit of the Bastides, taking in many hilltop Bastides, but today, we will enjoy Cordes and the surrounding countryside.
One of France’s most beautiful villages
The village prospered in the 13th and 14th centuries thanks to the cloth, silk, and leather trade. The noblemen’s and merchants’ splendid houses add to the reason this is one of France’s most beautiful villages, and indeed, it was voted France’s Favourite Village in 2014.
Be prepared for a climb. After all, it was chosen as a great location as one of the oldest bastides in Occitanie, created after the crusade against the Albigensians. It’s a lovely walk to explore the town, nicknamed the ‘city of a hundred arches.’ Each arch leads you on to discover its fortified gates, medieval streets, and typical craft shops.
Tourist information office
Our first stop was the helpful Tourist Information office, who gave us some fabulous information on what to see and do. We bought their Cordes Sur Ciel Walking Guide for €2, which gave us six walks to explore the town. We liked the circuit Legends and Mysteries.
On your wanders, look out for the Maison du Grand Ecuyer, Maison du Grand Veneur, Maison du Grand Fauconnier, and other Gothic palaces. La Place de la Bride is a lovely spot for vast panoramic views.
“Strolling through Cordes sur Ciel’s steep streets, you’ll encounter some strange architectural curiosities. On the ochre sandstone facades, dragons, animals, and strange characters dominate the curious passers-by. These contribute to the legendary atmosphere that reigns here, at an altitude of 320m, where the roofs of the beautiful buildings and the church steeple often touch the clouds.”
𝗪𝐫𝐞𝐧’𝐬 𝐭𝐢𝐩𝐬!
- Wear the right shoes on the cobbled streets and be prepared for the uphill climb.
- Go early to avoid the crowds.
Website: www.tourisme-tarn.com/Cordes-sur-Ciel
Suggestions for lunch:
La Table de Bacchus (wine bar)
A highly regarded wine bar serving aperitif platters.
Address: 46 Grand Rue Raymond VII, 81170 Cordes-sur-Cie
Website: www.laplanchedebacchus.com
Les enfants de Germaine
A welcoming tea room for delicious pastries, hot and cold drinks, ice creams, or even a breakfast before setting out on your day of discovery. At lunchtime, light meals are served beside the goldfish pond in the peaceful atmosphere of the leafy courtyard.
Address: 73 Grand Rue Raymond VII – 81170 Cordes sur Ciel.
Website: www.lesenfantsdegermaine.com
Whisky Distillerie Castan
As you travel along the D600 between Albi and Cordes en Ciel, you struggle to miss the sparkling white buildings of Distillerie Castan proudly displaying a sign for Vilanova Whisky. It is well worth stopping to hear the distillery’s story and sample its wide range of whisky.
Family-owned and run
Three generations of the Castan family have distilled alcoholic drinks on the premises since 1941. Whisky production started in 2010. Castan is the only producer of whisky in Occitanie.
The Vilanova single malt whisky family
Since whisky production is a relatively recent innovation, the whisky is relatively young—certainly compared to some of the malts from Scotland. The samples we tried had been barrel-aged for around seven years.
The Vilanova single malt whisky family comprises six members: Barbie, Roja, Gost, Gilbert (named after the founder), Argile, and Terrocita. The difference in taste is due to the barrels in which the whisky is matured—French or American, white or red wine or bourbon. Argile and Terrocita have strong peaty characteristics. All the whiskies are sold in 700, 350, and 50ml bottles. The distillery also produces an Eau de Vie and a gin.
Whisky Tasting
Tastings in the distillery shop are free, but if you have time, take a Discovery Visit, which lasts around an hour and a half and costs 12 Euros per person. This gives you a comprehensive tour of the artisanal distillery and the manufacturing process of growing their cereals, brewing, fermentation, distillation, and ageing Single Malt Whisky.
This visit ends with a tasting of five Single Malt Whiskies.
Afterwork Bar
There is also a very character-filled ‘Afterwork’ bar next to the shop, which would be a great place for a gathering.
The Details
Address: 55 Chemin de la Cardonnarie, 81130 Villeneuve sur Vere.
When: Monday to Saturday at 10:45 and 15:00 (By reservation only)
Website: www.distillerie-castan.com
We thoroughly enjoyed this unique and authentic experience. Thanks to Christiane for giving us such an enjoyable tour.
The vineyards of Gailliac
This is a land of wine. We enjoyed driving through villages and fortified towns to meet the locals and their vineyards. The Gaillac wine region, one of the oldest in France, is known for its diverse range of wines, from robust reds to crisp whites and sparkling varieties. The vineyards here are less commercialized than in other parts of France, allowing visitors to enjoy intimate tastings and meet the winemakers. So, it is worth stopping off for a wine tasting or two along the way.
Domaine Gayrard
We chose Domaine Gayrard. As we arrived unannounced and were told very firmly that it was lunchtime, we bought a packet of dried aniseed biscuits and some water (it should have been wine!) and took ourselves off for a picnic for their self-guided ‘walk in the vineyard tour,‘ which tells you more about all aspects of the land and its diversification, as well as specific things to look out for along the route, such as the wildlife, crops, birds etc.
It was a well-signed tour, a lovely way to learn more about their work while surveying the land!
Winetasting
We enjoyed our winetasting and purchases a few more bottles for our ever growing French wine collection.
Wren’s tip: make an appointment
Website: https://www.maison-gayrard.com/
Walk: From the vine to the olive tree
There is also a walk from their vineyard to an olive grove, Domaine Oleicole Rigaud. It’s a 2-hour 30-minute walk of 11.5 kilometres, offering superb views over the vineyards.
Walk details: randopleinenature.tarn.fr/trek/
Domaine Riguad Olive Oil Producer
It was too hot and too long for us to walk the wine-to-olive tree route, but we arrived and were given a really warm welcome by one of the family members.
We really enjoyed our visit to this family-run business, which has been passed down from generation to generation. Their estate has over 60 hectares of organic field crops, including wheat and sunflowers, ten hectares of wines, and three hectares of olive trees. They diversified in growing olive trees 15 years ago, which was a bold move as it is not a traditional crop in the region.
They offer you a booklet in English for a twenty-five-minute walk around their property. This walk takes you through olive trees and the truffle fields, and you will also see their vines.
The shop offers the different products offered by the estate: oils, tapenades, table olives, etc. You will also find products from local neighbouring producers, such as Gaillac wines, honey, lentils, cold meats, and cheeses.
Website: www.domainerigaud.fr
Beer Brewery: La Brasserie Auros
It was recommended that we visit La Brasserie Auros to taste local beer and visit the brewery. Sadly, we didn’t have the time on this visit, one to return for.
Day Five
Toscane Occitane
La Toscane Occitane is an area of the Tarn that owes its unique character to its hilltop medieval villages – Cordes sur Ciel, Penne, Castelnau-de-Montmiral and Puycelsi.
Today, we suggest continuing with the Circuit of the Bastides (started earlier with Corde sur Ciel) and visiting Puycelsi, the woodland fortress.
Circuit of the Bastides
You can take a complete circuit (150 km) of the Bastides, a journey through the area known as Little Tuscany of Tarn: from Cordes to Puycelci, Bruniquel, Penne and Castelnau de Monmirail.
More details: Circuit of the Bastides
Puycelsi, the woodland fortress
Puycelsi is one of those stunning hilltop villages in La Toscane Occitane, not to be missed. We enjoyed our wander through its medieval streets, enjoy panoramic views, and visit local artisan shops. With its ramparts, narrow, almost secret passages, alleyways and fortified gates, the village, nicknamed “the Fortress of the Woods”, as it appears as if by magic from the very heart of the forest.
Built on an imposing rock, Puycelsi is encircled by a long walkway that offers superb views of the surrounding countryside, which includes vineyards, forests and hills.
Penne
Penne is a medieval town 30 minutes from Cordes sur Ciel. It offers the ruins of an ancient fortress castle clinging to a cliff with beautiful views of the Grésigne Forest and the Aveyron Gorges.
Read more on Penne here: www.la-toscane-occitane.com/en/penne
Fortress de Penne museum
It brings the Middle Ages back to life with a collection of archaeological items uncovered during excavations conducted here since 2007. A footpath called “le sentier des Bonhommes” (the Cathar trail) has just opened, so you can walk all around the castle to see every side of it
Website: www.chateau-penne.com
Day Six: Lac de Saint Ferreol
If you love the great outdoors, why not head to Saint-Ferréol Lake near Revel? It is a 75-minute drive from Albi. Saint-Ferréol Lake is in the Laudot valley, across the three French departments of Haute-Garonne, Aude, and Tarn.
Read more on our blog post here: Enjoying the great outdoors at Saint Ferreol Lake.
This picturesque lake, once the largest reservoir in the western world and now a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a vibrant hub for outdoor activities. Enjoy hiking, biking, sailing, and kayaking, with a range of summer rentals available from the lakeside activity centre, Espace Sport & Nature. Whether you’re a nature lover or just looking to unwind in a stunning setting, Saint-Ferréol Lake offers the perfect escape.
Wellness Escapes in the Tarn
It seems the Tarn area has a growing number of options for those looking to combine a French charm stay with the tranquillity of the area.
Chateau de Fiac, by The Pavilions
I have been fortunate to stay at and appreciate The Pavilions in Phuket, Thailand, and Bali, Indonesia, where I stayed at their sister wellness resort, Revivo. I rate this company, and Chateau de Fiac has caught my attention for future discovery.
‘Step into a world of timeless beauty and tranquillity as you explore our unique 19th-century estate in the scenic Tarn region, nestled in the picturesque village of Fiac. Spanning over 3 hectares of meticulously landscaped grounds, our enchanting property invites you to discover its irresistible charm and serenity‘ Chateau de Fiac.
Address: 51 Rue Chaminade, 81500 Fiac, France
Website: www.chateaudefiac.com
Where to stay
Hôtel Mercure Albi Bastides
Mercure Bastide Hotel is one of those local gems visitors may miss in favour of a more central spot. However, located just across the Tarn River, the hotel offers beautiful views of Albi’s historic centre, including the Cathedral of Sainte-Cecile, the Pont Vieux, and a scenic weir.
This four-star hotel has an intriguing history. It once was a pasta factory, traces of which are thoughtfully preserved throughout the property.
Wren’s room tip: We suggest requesting an even-numbered floor with a whole window. The rooms on odd-numbered floors have only a half window and are slightly dark.
Check out more here: Room Tour via IG: www.instagram.com/littlewanderingwren
La Vermicellerie restaurant
One of the highlights was La Vermicellerie restaurant at Hôtel Mercure Albi Bastides. The view one of the best you’ll find in the city, and the food is excellent, too. The Plat du Jour in the La Vermicellerie restaurant is great value—three courses for 25 Euros.
Mazamet AirBNB
We stayed in a charming apartment, which is sadly no longer available for short-term rent. However, do check out the booking sites, as there are plenty to choose from.
Getting to The Tarn
Albi, city, is capital of Tarn département 45 minutes from Toulouse. For details, see Albi Tourism: How to Arrive in Albi.
By Air
Toulouse Blagnac Airport. There are flights to 85 destinations worldwide, including Bristol, Birmingham, Dublin, and Edinburgh. There are 21 flights per week to London, and ten flights a week are to Montreal, Canada. Flights can also be found from and to Dubai and Doha.
Castres-Mazamet Airport: offers flights to/from Paris
By Train
Rail connections are provided to Albi. There are 17 connections daily from Toulouse to Albi. See all TER timetables or Sncf travel.
THE TARN LINE train from Toulouse to Mazamet
This train journey takes you through the rolling and unspoilt Tarn countryside east of Toulouse to Castres, the “Little Venice of the Tarn” to Mazamet.
Rental Car
We found a rental car useful for exploring at our own pace. We rented a car from Europcar and returned it to their depot at Toulouse Airport.
Final Thoughts
We hope you have enjoyed this guide to the peaceful and terrific destination of The Tarn. This peaceful getaway is perfect for those who enjoy the beautiful countryside, the charming medieval villages of Cordes sur Ciel and Puyselsi, and the historic cities of Albi and Castre. We discovered much to see, do, and love, from breathtaking skywalks to cultural treasures like the Goya & Toulouse Lautrec Museums.
Tarn is a place where history, culture, and nature are discovered for an unforgettable experience for those seeking slow travel, authentic experiences, and unspoiled landscapes. If you want to step off the beaten path and immerse yourself in authentic French culture, make Tarn your next destination. You won’t regret it!
Thank you for reading this guide to peaceful and terrific travels in the Tarn, Occitanie, France
Disclosure: Little Wandering Wren was a Destination Occitanie guest exploring this region with Tourisme Tarn. All opinions are my own. A grand merci beaucoup from us!
Follow us on Social Media: Find more photos of my travels and stories on Instagram @littlewanderingwren
3 comments
Amazing post Wren! The photos are lovely, what a wonderful place to visit. Take care, have a great day!
Thank you so much Eileen, this was such fun to write the department of Tarn has some picturesque medieval villages and cities which were fun to wander and explore. We loved the countryside, that swing bridge was something else, as was the Saint Ferreol Lake. We found some wonderful museums, had some fantastic meals, and enjoyed visiting local producers of wine, whisky and olive oil. There was lots to see, do and love.
Thank you for stopping by and have a great day too.
Wren x
This region sounds perfect to me! Wine, charming cities, countryside, wellness! Love it all!