A guide to the Ochre Trails of Luberon, Provence.

470

We had never heard of the Ochre Massif and its ochre trails in Luberon and never expected to find anything like this in France. We were delighted to be invited by Destination Luberon to explore Provence’s colourful heartland. It was such a colourful, uplifting journey. Won’t you come for a wander with us as we share our guide to discovering Luberon’s vibrant ochre trails?

What is Ochre

Ochre is a pigment used since Prehistory found in quite different quantities on the five continents.

The Ochre Massif is renowned for its stunning palette of colours, ranging from deep reds and fiery oranges to bright yellows and soft browns. These striking shades result from iron oxide deposits in the sandstone, creating a visual feast that changes with the light and weather.

The Ochre Massif

In the heart of Provence, the Ochre Massif in Luberon is a natural wonder that attracts visitors from across the globe in search of its hues and rich history.

This geological marvel stretches 25 km from Goult to Gignac via Roussillon, Gargas, Villars, and Rustrel. The picturesque villages of Roussillon, Gargas, and Rustrel offer a unique and unforgettable experience for nature lovers, photographers, and history enthusiasts alike.

We Aussies are so proud of the stunning colours at Uluru and the Olgas that we reckon they are the most stunning sights in the world …. Well, perhaps we need to think again. Luberon’s Ochre Trail is worth adding to your France bucket list.

The Ochre Trail, Roussillon

The Ochre trail in Provence is extraordinary and much less remote than our Aussie Ochre! Head to the picture-perfect hilltop village of Roussillon, and you will find Le Sentier Des Ochres with two short walks (one takes about 35 minutes, the other 50 minutes) that give you panoramic views of the orange and red cliffs on which the village perches.

What to expect

This well-marked trail passes through a series of dramatic landscapes, including towering cliffs, narrow ravines, and expansive plateaus. Along the way, informative signs provide insights into the area’s geological and cultural history, making the hike educational and, in places, jaw-dropping.

Plan your visit

We arrived late in the day, which was great for photos and meant we could enjoy the tranquillity and solitude of the place, far from the madding crowd. We have heard that during peak season (June to August), you may have to queue for an hour to start the walks in the middle of the day.

The paths are well signed and sympathetically done, blending in wonderfully with the environment through rust-coloured bridges and rails. Information boards tell you about how the cliffs were formed and the ochre subsequently mined. But our advice is just to let the beauty of the place wash over you as you admire the incredible natural hues of the majestic cliffs.

Ochre Trail details

Entry to the walks is €3.50 Euros for adults. Children under 10 years old are free.

Opening hours are 9h00 – 18h30

There are several car parks in the village (free in winter, there is a fee in season) you can use either cash or card.

Visiting Roussillon

It’s hard to resist wandering the village of Roussillon, classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France. The ochre-coloured buildings are lovely, with their walls coloured by ochre sand. Be prepared to walk uphill -you know France is a fitness holiday, right – to enjoy wonderful views. The village offers cafes, restaurants, bars, art galleries, boutiques, and shops.

We sat in one of the bars in a square; a band played as the sun set; Roussillon certainly charmed us!

The Colorado Provencal in Rustrel

If you hear the crowds are too much at Roussillon, you can head to the Colorado Provencal at Rustrel, which is as spectacular and less popular with tourist groups. They say it is an even more dramatic ochre experience. Our landlady insisted that visiting the Colorado Provencal in Rustrel is a must!

This area is often compared to the American Southwest (so it is not just the Aussies who will be impressed!) and features towering ochre cliffs, natural arches, and otherworldly rock formations. The well-maintained trails here offer a range of hiking options:

The Sahara (Blue) trail is 2.1 km, takes about 40 minutes, and is marked easy.

The Belvederes (orange) trail is 3.9km, takes about 1h45 (round trip to the car park), and is marked as medium difficulty. This circuit overlooks the whole of Colorado Provençal, giving you a dominant view of the Sahara, the Fairy Chimneys and the White Desert. 

Check out the website here for all the details, including making advanced reservations.

The History of Ochre Mining

If you want to know more about the history of Ochre in Provence, we suggest you either visit Ôkhra – Écomusée De L’ocre Roussillon or Mines de Bruoux near Gargas.

The Ochre Massif’s vibrant colours are a significant part of the region’s cultural heritage. Ochre mining began in the area in the 18th century, with the extracted pigments being used in paints, textiles, and cosmetics. The mines provided employment for many locals and played a crucial role in the region’s economy.

Okhra Ecomusee de L’ochre Roussillon

The old Mathieu okhra factory just outside Roussillon is now a museum that demonstrates the various steps in the processing of ochre, from extraction to washing to drying in the kilns to packaging for shipment. There is also a small gift shop with books about ochre and ochre for purchase.

Ôkhra – Écomusée De L’ocre Roussillon

Mines de Bruoux

Ochre was collected through open-cast mining and mined underground, so to complement your trip to Roussillon, you should also visit the Mines de Bruoux near Gargas. Here, miners worked underground, excavating vast quantities of ochre-rich sand and leaving an extensive network of cathedral-like tunnels 12 metres high.

Mining started in the early 1900s. The miners were local farmers with minimal knowledge of mining techniques, so accidents, cave-ins and rock falls were all too common. Advice was sought from miners in the north of France, so the tunnels and extraction techniques followed the guidelines provided by these experts.

Over 40 kilometres of tunnels exist, which is impressive considering that mining only took place here for about 50 years.

Due to safety issues, visits to the mines are guided only. You need to wear a hard hand and receive a safety briefing. Our guide, Valerie, was highly knowledgeable and engaging.

The group was large and predominantly French, so most of the commentary was in French. However, iPads are available to explain the tour in many languages.

Mines de Bruoux details

Please note that you need to book the tour by phone beforehand. The mines are open between late March and the end of October. Entry for adults is 9.50 Euros and 7.50 Euros for 6-17year-olds. 

Travel details

Due to the remote nature of Luberon’s Ochre Massif, we found that hiring a car was the best way to travel.

Flights

We took a Ryanair direct flight from Stanstead, London, UK, to Marseille. Then, we hired a rental car with Europcar near the St Charles train station. It took 1 hour and 40 minutes to drive the 100 km to Roussillon.

By Train

From the UK, you can take the Eurostar from London to Paris and change trains for a TGV to Avignon, which we did on a previous trip and were very impressed with the French trains.

If you arrive by TGV in Avignon, you can hire a car there. The trip is 47 km and takes approximately one hour.

Where to stay?

You will have lots of choices.

We stayed at La Bastide du Mourre—Oppede (23 minutes to Roussillon). It was my highlight stay: restful rooms in the countryside focused on wellness, but the only problem is that you might not want to leave!

Hotel La Jas de Gordes (14 minutes to Roussillon ) is a 4-star Luxury hotel on the outskirts of Gordes with a fabulous swimming pool area.

Le Bouquet de l’Aromate in Joucas This Chambre d’Hotes offers budget rooms with a lovely swimming pool and gardens, a friendly team, and a simple breakfast included, from €115 per night.

Wren’s Practical Tips for Visiting

• Best Time to Visit: The Ochre Massif is beautiful year-round, but the colours are especially vibrant in the spring and fall. Early morning or late afternoon light also enhances the hues.
• What to Wear: Comfortable walking shoes are essential, as the trails can be uneven. It’s hot on the trails, so light, breathable clothing, a hat, and sunscreen are recommended.
• Photography Tips: The pro photographer will want to bring a camera with a good zoom lens to capture the intricate details of the rock formations. A tripod can also be helpful for steady shots in low light. All my photos here are captured with an iPhone 13 camera.

Conclusion

The Ochre Massif in Luberon is a world painted yellow …. and orange, brown and red. A place that captivates the senses and ignites the imagination. Whether you’re hiking the trails, exploring the ochre mines, or enjoying wandering in one of Frances’s most beautiful villages. A visit to this extraordinary region will leave you with lasting memories and a deep appreciation for the natural beauty of Provence. So pack your bags, lace up your hiking boots, and get ready to discover the kaleidoscope of colours that awaits in the Ochre Massif!

Disclosure: Little Wandering Wren was a Destination Luberon guest and received a hosted stay. All opinions are my own. 

Travels in France – 9 -26 June 2024

For more travels in France, please see How to Get The Best From A 48-Hour Avignon City Pass, or Discovering Magnificent Montpellier Tips For The Best Trip.