Kanchanaburi Staycation

Our two days, one night trip to Kanchanaburi Province.

Kanchanaburi is a 121 km two-hour 30 mins drive west of Bangkok and makes a perfect post COVID escape. Whilst so far all my staycations have been either close to home in Bangkok, or at the beach, nature has been calling.

We are continuing in our quest to support Thai domestic tourism as the country begins to emerge from the pandemic and enable inter-provincial travel.

For details of :

• Our Best Bangkok Staycations in 2020 Click here
• Anantara Hua Hin Staycation Click here

What Does Kanchanaburi offer?

In this crazy world of ‘I just want to get away,’  you can find this now sleepy province, well it will be once the recent rush of domestic tourism subsides! In Kanchanaburi, you can delight in the water and the mountains, with beautiful nature at its best and steeped in history.

The area was made famous due to the movie and book Bridge over the River Kwai. For many visitors, the main drawcard is the importance of the region as a historical World War II prisoner campsite, when the Japanese were trying to build a railway to reach British India.

You can read all about our previous trips Wandering Kanchanaburi here.

World War 11 History:

• Chong Kai and Don Rak Cemeteries
• Museums of Thailand Burma Railway Centre and Hellfire Pass

Swimming and Trekking

• Sai Yok Yai, Sai Yok Noi and Erawan waterfalls
• Srinakarin Dam
• Krasae Cave (Death Railway)

River Activities

• Long Tail Boat rides
• Canoeing, Kayaking and Paddleboarding

Kanchanaburi Lifestyle

• Alms Giving with monks
• Thai Cooking class

Shalom Boom ready for Almsgiving

Cultural and Historical

• Mueang Sing Historical Parks
• Wat Tham Suea – see below
• Wat Ban Tham
• Wat Tham Pu Wa

But for us this time, two women who like to think of ourselves as intrepid travellers, nature wins.

Here is our 2 day one night trip to Kanchanaburi in search of history and culture and the long lost opportunity to reconnect with nature which for many has been missing since COVID-19 arrived with weeks of social isolation. For my friend, this was the first time she had ventured out of Bangkok in months.

FARM CAFE :

787/3, Soi Thetsaban 25, Tha Muang, Kanchanaburi,

But first coffee. We stop at Farm Cafe in Tha Muang. We are greeted by the owner who gives us bananas as well as a decent cup of coffee – winner. A nice break en-route and a touch of local culture.

Farm Cafe Tha Muang

Our Hotel: U Inchantrree Kanchanaburi

443 Mae Nam Kwai Road Tha Ma Kham, Mueang Kanchanaburi District, Kanchanaburi 71000

We choose this hotel because of the way it is directly on the river, it is very scenic. And if you are going to be staying at the River Kwai, well it’s good to see the bridge from brekkie, isn’t it? The rooms were spacious (30m) and well-appointed and we were upgraded to the Deluxe rooms which were very good for our needs. Both the Thai atmosphere and the location are fantastic.

Lazy days are calling at U Inchantree

In the River Kwai, the fish are jumping and in the trees, the birds are singing. The gardens are very pleasant, there are a small swimming pool, library and a minuscule gym but the row of bikes outside the front, hiking, canoeing or paddleboarding are the way to go here for your fitness!

U Inchantree

Talking of the trees the most unusual name Inchantree is based on Thai literature of a love story that has taken place in Kanchanaburi. She was In, he was Chan and they were doomed lovers. The famous Thai tale is Khun Chang and Khun Phaen. This Inchantree is rather special as it gives fruit twice a year, One season it gives the In the next the Chan.

There is a magnificent big tree in the centre of the hotel to attest to this and yes it is is an Inchan tree. In reception on small plates as we arrive are some fruits from the tree. We didn’t try!

ALMS GIVING

One of the highlights of my stay was the early morning almsgiving. It was a real privilege to gather with Thai people along the banks of the River Kwai at our hotel U Inchantree. Since COVID the hotel tells me that this popular event to make merit with the monks has become even more popular.

For 199 Baht (US 6.50) the hotel prepares for each participating guest a Chalom Baan set of rice, a side dish, drinking water, fruit and some beautiful orchid flowers.

The monk arrives by boat and in the shadow of the Bridge over the River Kwai, I watch as the other guests descend the stairs to make their offerings. When it is my turn I make my offering.  I am given a small golden jar with water which I pour into the second brass container whilst I make my wish, and the monk chants his prayer. This little ceremony felt rather moving and I am very grateful to have these experiences knowing that others around the world are still not as fortunate.

I’m deliberately the last to make my offering. The orange-clad monk then speeds off into the sunrise, his boat full of flowers and pretty Chalom Baan basket sets neatly tied with a cheery yellow ribbon.

It was a real life’s good moment.

Making Merit: Alms Giving on the River Kwai

Touring Kanchanaburi:

Having previously spent most of our time in Kanchanaburi devouring all the history of the building of the Burma, or Death Railway, as it was known and at Hellfire Pass, I had not fully appreciated the beauty of the area. Like you don’t, when your mind is full of the atrocities of war.

This trip gives us the chance to explore the countryside.

Stairway to the biggest Buddha in Kanchanaburi

This was our first glimpse of this area post-COVID and the one thing that is most memorable throughout was the blue skies and clear air.  Here is an area where the Thai Chinese community is evident from their temples. Their plentiful cemeteries alongside the road on the route out to Wat Tham Suea gives us an indication of the splendours of what we are about to discover.

Wat Tham Suea

WAT THAM SUEA (Distance 20 km)

Known as the Temple of the Tiger Cave, although there are no tigers there any more. What is wonderful about this stunning temple is the mix of Chinese, Tibetan and Thai Buddhism representing the different parts of Asia. The towering chedi, 69 meters tall is visible a long way off.  We arrive to find a bustling car park full of gift shops, food stalls and a daunting staircase of steep 157 steps to the enormous 18 m high Buddha statue, the largest in Kanchanaburi.

Once up top, we pause to take in the view. You can’t help but be impressed by the backdrop of rice paddies and mountains and the Mae Klong river.

Opening times 9.00  to 4.00 pm Entrance Free

Address: Muang Chum Tha Muang Kanchanaburi 71110

For more information on Wat Tham Suea can be found here

WAT BAN THAM (DISTANCE 16 KM)

Just 5 km down the road is known as the Temple of the Caves village this area is so mountainous, which is why there are so many cave temples, as in the olden days this was where people were hiding. The wat dates back to the U -Thong period in 12-15th Century AD It was inhabited from the 12th Century.

We weren’t planning to stop here, but a huge dragon lures us in from the road. On closer inspection, besides the Mae Khlong River, we find the huge fishlike beast with big round eyes sliding down the staircase.

Wat Ban Tham

We did not climb the stairs on this occasion but it is one to return to, as inside the dragon you will find paintings on the walls of the same story as our hotel Khun Chang and Khun Phaen you see everything is linked!

Had we climbed up we would have found by all accounts at the top two impressive caves and another mountain top chedi.

What does catch our attention is to the right of the dragon staircase, suspended in the greenery, was a wonderful building that looked like a red lacquer box.

In the cooling late afternoon, Wat Ban Tham has fewer visitors and a much quieter feel than the previous temple.

Opening times 9.00  to 4.00 pm Free Entrance

Address: Tha Muang, Kanchanaburi

More information on Wat Ban Tham can be found here

Bridge over the River Kwai

Although we can see the bridge from the gardens of our hotel, no visit to Kanchanaburi is complete without a walk over this historic site. The black iron bridge was part of the notorious Death Railway and as we carefully walk on the railway sleepers, lo and behold in the middle of the bridge, a toot, toot and we find a train coming straight at us, Talked about a blessed trip!

More information on The Bridge Over the River Kwai can be found here

Barme Tea and Taste Cafe

Nestled at the back of the Wat Tham Khao Pun temple, is a recently open cafe. It scores highly for its position and Tion the manager. We found out that the temples have the choice of mountain top locations and what a beautiful site and sight.

This cafe was created only opened two months ago, but already at the weekends, there is a long line of customers waiting to get in and take the perfect shot. There is also a second cafe at the same spot called The Curve. Both restaurants offer a similarly amazing view and a nice selection of hot tea and coffees and assorted soda, only one cafe has Tion as the owner-manager!

Tion, was previously involved with fashion magazines and what a professional he is, as he gently manoeuvres us into just the right positions that would make any Instagrammer proud, oh we did have fun! Here is my photoshoot. Hmmm I’m not entirely sure of the feather duster grasses beside me, what do you think?

Barme Tea and Taste photoshoot with Tion

At present Thailand is gradually opening up for domestic tourism. Our hotel was full which is an encouraging sign. We are waiting for further news on when International flights for tourists will resume. We hope to see you when our borders are open. In the meantime, I hope you have enjoyed wandering Kanchanburi with me, next stop more on our Hua Hin staycations!

Linking with thanks to Sharon at Sharon’s Souvenirs Travel Pics, Angie at Mosaic Monday and Lady Fi all the hosts at Our World Tuesday