Provence in southeastern France has always captivated us—and we’re certainly not alone! We’ve cherished our previous visits to Avignon and Arles. This year, thanks to an invitation from Destination Luberon, we explored the lovely Luberon region at the heart of Provence. Luberon offers a quintessential escape for those seeking beauty and an authentic Provençal life. This Discovering Luberon guide will provide our recommendations for Luberon’s best experiences, accommodation, and culinary delights. Read on as we share our Destination Guide to Luberon.
Won’t you take a wander with me?
We found stunning ochre landscapes, visited vineyards, and wandered through picturesque medieval villages with gorgeous markets and incredible views. We had long, leisurely lunches, stayed in some of my all-time favourite accommodations and made lasting memories, like when we ended up joining the monks for Vespers at Sénanque Abbey!
Why visit Luberon?
Who remembers Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence, the book that catapulted Luberon to fame in the late 1980s, more effectively than any ad campaign? Luberon continues to remain a beloved destination for many reasons. If you haven’t been charmed by the book to visit, here are our top reasons why Luberon should be on your travel list.
Stunning Landscapes
The countryside is fantastic. It is famous for its lavender fields and vineyards in summer and so much more. We discovered olive oil groves and ochre-covered hills. Every view is gorgeous!
Outdoor activities to enjoy nature at its best
Whether you’re into hiking or biking, Luberon offers endless trails and scenic routes for every wanderer. We were so impressed by all the cyclists; this place is hilly!
Cultural Heritage
We loved discovering some of France’s most beautiful villages, as listed in les plus beaux villages de France. Charming hilltop villages like Gordes, Ménerbes, Lourmarin and Roussillon have unique histories and characters.
Along with cultural heritage, I include Provence food. The regional gastronomy and the wonderful French way of life, which involves stopping for lunch, are to be embraced big time!
Peace and Serenity
Rural Provence is so serene. You get the impression that some of the landscapes have remained unchanged since medieval times.
When to go?
Luberon works hard to appeal as a year-round destination. However, for the best experience, we suggest going outside the crowded and expensive high season of July/August.
Spring in Luberon (March to May)
Why Visit: Spring is a great time in Luberon. With mild temperatures and nature bursting into life after winter, the landscape is a mass of blooming flowers and lush greenery – the landscape changes as green shoots appear on the vines.
If you’re a truffle enthusiast, note that Luberon’s truffle season runs from November to mid-March.
What to Enjoy:
- Flowering Almond and Cherry Trees: Wander through orchards and marvel at the pink and white blossoms.
- Hiking: The weather is perfect for exploring the numerous trails in the Luberon Regional Park.
- Local Markets: Experience the vibrant spring produce, including fresh strawberries, asparagus and artichokes
- Cultural Events: Springtime festivals offer local produce and traditions, like the Strawberry Festival in Carpentras (April) or the Asparagus Festival in Mormoiron (April).
Summer in Luberon (June to August)
We suggest you come at another time if you can!
Summer would not be my first choice of visit. It is the peak tourist season and the most expensive time, and the weather is hot. The charm of the Luberon area is the countryside. We prefer slower travel in less crowded, quieter times.
Autumn in Luberon (September to November)
Why Visit: Autumn in Luberon is a time of harvest. The crowds thin out, and the autumn colours on the vines change the landscape yet again.
What to Enjoy:
- Wine Harvest: Participate in grape harvesting and wine tasting at local vineyards. In October, wine festivals offer fascinating weekends.
- Check out the @fascinantweekend Wineries & Discoveries! Appointment from October 17 to 20. Get ready for four unforgettable days in the heart of the beautiful vineyards of Luberon, Ventoux and Dentelles de Montmirail 🍇
- Truffle Hunting: Join a truffle hunt and savour the prized delicacy in local restaurants.
- Cycling: The cooler temperatures make for ideal cycling conditions through the scenic countryside.
Winter (December to February)
Why Visit: Winter in Luberon is peaceful and charming, with a slower pace and fewer tourists.
What to Enjoy:
- Christmas Markets: for more see the Magic of Christmas in Provence and join in the local festivities.
- Christmas Truffle market: in Menerbes on the last Sunday of December.
- Local Cuisine: Warm up with hearty Provençal dishes, such as daube (beef stew) and truffle-infused specialities.
- Exploring Villages: Enjoy the quiet beauty of Luberon’s villages without the summer crowds.
- Hiking and Nature Walks: The mild winter climate allows for outdoor activities and exploring the region’s natural beauty.
How long should you spend here?
The region’s charm is best enjoyed through slow travel. There is plenty to do and see here, and the longer you stay, the more you learn about the region and its history. We suggest, spending at least a week in this area is the minimum you want to do to get a good feel of the area.
The absolute joy of a Luberon holiday is having no real plan and seeing where the day takes you. This way, you can linger longer at a local market, take an extended lunch break, or drop in for a wine or olive oil tasting that you happen upon.
Here are a few of our favourite days in the region, covering some must-see places.
Roussillon & The Ochre trail
Roussillion
Head to the picture-perfect hilltop village of Roussillon, and you will find two short Ochre Trails (one takes about 35 minutes, the other 50 minutes) that give you panoramic views of the village’s orange and red cliffs.
We suggest either early or late in the day to enjoy the tranquillity and solitude of the place far from the madding crowd. We have heard that during peak season (June to August), you may have to queue for an hour to start the walks in the middle of the day. Entry to the walks is €5.50 for adults, and the walks are open from February to early January.
After finishing at The Ochre Trail, we suggest walking to the viewpoints in the old town. Be prepared to walk uphill. You do know France is a fitness holiday, right? The village offers cafes, restaurants, bars, art galleries, boutiques, and shops.
Real ochre enthusiasts might also enjoy the Eco Museum d’Ochre located in the old Mathieu Plant Ochra factory just outside Roussillon.
For the full details, see the full blog post: A Guide to the Ochre Trails of Luberon.
Joucas
We chose to stay in Joucas because of its proximity to Roussillon. This peaceful village is a delight for a lunchtime wander.
Recommended Joucas Restaurants
Bistrot La Terrasse
Address: Le village, D102, 84220 Joucas, France
We enjoyed dinner at this casual restaurant. We joined the locals sitting on the terrace, which had a great view of the vineyards and the petite Luberon. The food was nice, the staff was friendly, and the value was good.
The Gordes Restaurant
Address: 255 Chemin de la Haute Pinede, Route de Murs, 84220 Joucas, France
Found at the newly renovated four-star Le Jas de Joucas hotel has a lovely garden setting and offers a three-course Discovery Menu for €49.
Mines de Bruoux in Gargas
Ochre was collected through open-cast mining and mined underground, so to complement your trip to Roussillon, you should also visit the Mines de Bruoux near Gargas. Here, miners worked underground, excavating vast quantities of ochre-rich sand and leaving an extensive network of cathedral-like tunnels 12 metres high.
Mining started in the early 1900s. The miners were local farmers with minimal knowledge of mining techniques, so accidents, cave-ins and rock falls were all too common. Advice was sought from miners in the north of France, so the tunnels and extraction techniques followed the guidelines provided by these experts.
Over 40 kilometres of tunnels exist, which is impressive considering that mining only occurred here for about 50 years.
Due to safety issues, visits to the mines are guided only. The group was large and predominantly French, so most of the commentary was in French. However, iPads are available to explain the tour in many languages.
For the full details, see A Guide to the Ochre Trails of Luberon
Wines, Truffles, and more Charming Villages
Winetasting
No French holiday is complete without visiting a vineyard, enjoying a winetasting and buying some French wines to take home. Luberon’s vineyards are set in the picturesque surroundings of the Luberon National Park.
In Luberon, you can enjoy wine tasting at many different estates. Some suggestions are Domaine La Garelle in Oppède and Château de Mille between Apt and Bonnieux. Château de Mille is the oldest wine estate in Luberon, which dates back to 1238.
Domaine de La Citadelle
We chose Domaine de la Citadelle, which offers wine tasting and more. You can visit the vineyard gardens or the Musée du Tire-Bouchon, which displays nearly 1,200 corkscrews. The estate has been organically farmed since 2016 and has the HVE (High Environmental Value) label.
Domaine de La Citadelle
Route de Cavaillon 84560 Ménerbes
Tel: 04 90 72 41 58
www.domaine-citadelle.com
Ménerbes
Ménerbes is listed as “one of France’s most beautiful villages” and is famous for being the setting of Peter Mayles’s A Year in Provence book, wine and truffles.
From the village perched high on a rocky outcrop, you can enjoy views of Petit Luberon, the Vaucluse mountains, and Mont Ventoux, the Giant of Provence.
Maison de la Truffe et du Vin
The truffle season runs from November to mid-March. You can buy fresh truffles in season from Maison de la Truffe et du Vin, a beautiful 17th-century building with a French garden with great views of the Luberon, which is especially lovely at sunset.
House of Truffles and Luberon Win
43 Place de l’Horloge. 84560 Ménerbes
Oppede Le Vieux
It’s worth the climb to stand in his village once lost in time, which has looked down on the Luberon Plains since medieval days. Along its cobblestone paths, you’ll find ancient homes hewn into the mountain rock and a spectacular castle and church of Notre-Dame-d’Alydon above the village – a 10-minute walk up a stone path. Halfway up the path is the 19th-century chapel of Saint-Antonin.
Car parking: You can’t park inside the village. There is a car park at the entrance to the village, leaving you with a 5-minute walk uphill.
More Charming Villages
We didn’t get to all the charming and beautiful villages we wanted to see. Note these other highly recommended villages: Saigon, Cucuron, Cabrières d’Avignon, and Bonnieux. All are typically beautiful Provencal places.
Gordes, Lavender and Senanque Abbey
Lavender Museum, Coustellet
We stopped at the Musée de la Lavande of Luberon in Coustellet, five kilometres from Gordes. The museum was started 33 years ago by the Lincele family, the owners of Le Chateau du Bois, one of the major fine lavender producers in the area. Its mission is to explain the industry’s history, how the oils are produced, and how the lavender oils are used.
The tour starts with an informative introductory film in the museum explaining the two major forms of lavender – fine lavender, which is grown from seeds and then lavandin, which is a hybrid form grown from cuttings. Lavandin produces far more essential oil than fine lavender and has a strong odour of camphor. It is mainly used in cleaning applications. It is fine lavender is used in fragrances and personal care products and is considerably more expensive. The film also covers the oil production process and how the oils are extracted and used.
The museum has an extensive collection of distillation units going way back to the 1600s and photographs of the families involved in the industry. You feel as if you are living and working alongside them.
The tour finishes in the boutique, where the array of products that lavender is contained in is revealed. It is difficult to walk out of there without making a few purchases.
Entry with a helpful audioguide is 8.00 Euros for adults. The museum opens every day at 1000 and shuts for lunch between 1300-1400.
Coustellet farmers’ market
Regarded as one of the best markets in Provence, it takes place every Sunday morning from April to December, and a smaller version is on Wednesday evenings, June-August, from 5 pm to 7.30 pm.
Sénanque Abbey
Discover the Abbaye de Sénanque, known for monks in its lavender fields and as one of Provence’s symbols.
The Abbey of Sénanque is a contemplative place of monastic life. It was founded in 1148 by an Abbott and 12 monks, and to this day, a handful of monks remain. Mass and all services are open to the public. Visitors are reminded to dress respectfully and respect the spirit of silence and prayers.
We attended an evening Vesper service in a chapel. Four monks and a motley group of worshippers attended. The singing was hauntingly beautiful, resonating through the ancient stone walls, creating a serene, almost ethereal atmosphere.
Guided tours are in French; however, a self-guided tour with a HistoPad, an augmented-reality digital tablet, is available in 10 languages. This cleverly transports you back to a bygone era and will guide you through the Abbey as it recreates scenes from the monks’ daily lives from the Middle Ages to the present day!
Wrens Tip: Be careful of your timings as the Abbey closes for services throughout the day. For instance, at 11 am, the Abbey closes for Mass.
Monday to Saturday: Open from 09:30 am to 11:00 am and from 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm
Sunday: From 01:00 pm to 5:00 pm
More details are available on the Senanque Abbey website
Gordes
No trip to the Luberon is going to be complete without a visit to Gordes. One of the most famous villages of Provence. Built on the foothills of the Monts of Vaucluse, facing the Luberon, Gordes is one of the most well-known hilltops in the region and definitely worth a wander of its “calades” (narrow cobblestone streets).
Château de Gordes
This Renaissance chateau was built in the 16th century on the site of a 12th-century fortress.
Highlights include a monumentally ornate fireplace that was listed as a historic monument in 1902, a giant spiral staircase whose steps are formed from a single stone from the quarries of Ménerbes, Oppède, and Saint Pantaléon, and two superb 16th-century oak doors.
Address: Place Genty Pantaly – 84220 GORDES – France Cost: €6 per Adult
St. Firmin Palace underground in Gordes.
A network of cellars awaits exploration under the Palais Saint Firmin, a large Renaissance house. This has been open to the public since 1999. You start with a documentary on the restoration of the Caves, which welcomes you at the start of your visit to the old chapel.
Spread over seven levels with a height difference of almost 20 m, this extraordinary complex has around fifty cellars, some connected by corridors and staircases; others open out into the open air. There are oil mills, cisterns, a magnificent bread oven, and various warehouses. What remains of the village’s old artisanal life is extraordinary.
Website: Caves Saint Firmin
Recommended Gordes Restaurants
Lunch at Bastide des Pierres
You can’t miss La Bastide des Pierres. This popular Italian restaurant faces the castle at the centre of the village and is often referred to as an institution in Gordes. Enjoy Neapolitan pizzas, antipasti and excellent pasta on its terrace or in its traditional dining room.
Dinner L’Outsider Gordes
This meal was exceptional, and Gormands from around the world were welcomed. Judging by the conversations in many languages, it is not just the Brits who have discovered this charming restaurant tucked away up a small alley.
Offering indoor dining under the exposed stone vault or on the terrace to enjoy the Provençal sunshine, there is no such thing as a bad seat here!
Website: L’Outsider
Wren’s tips:
Gordes Market
Do not miss the weekly market held every Tuesday morning. This colourful and photogenic market is set around the foot of the village’s central castle. This vibrant market emphasizes fabrics, linens, soaps, lavender, and clothing.
Tourist Information Gordes
We found The Tourism Office hard to find. The entrance is hidden at the back of the fountain and is a great place to start with further information and to gain a map of the village. You can explore the medieval lanes and terraces of this hilltop village.
Gordes Car Parking
There is plenty of car parking, but be prepared to walk! The first 30 mins are free, but then it’s €6 for four hours.
Lourmarin to Lauris: Markets and Olive Oil Discovery
This is another beautiful village recognised with the Les Plus Beaux Villages de France award. Lourmarin is one of those quintessential Luberon villages with cobbled streets and stone buildings. We found it to be a vibrant place, it was a joy to wander here, especially on market day.
Lourmarin market
Lourmarin’s market is every Friday morning. It takes over the plane tree-lined avenue into the centre of the village and beyond as 180 and more exhibitors cram themselves into the heart of the village. It’s one of the most beautiful markets in the area. Local musicians and street performers add to the joie de vivre atmosphere. Free parking is provided in local fields.
An evening Farmers Market is held each Tuesday.
Details of all the Luberon Markets here around the region.
Recommended Lourmarin Restaurant
Bacheto
Address: Av. Raoul Dautry, 84160 Lourmarin, France
Our best lunch in Luberon was at Bacheto at the Le Moulin de Lourmarin Hotel, conveniently located in the centre of the town. Fresh produce from local markets dictates the menu, which consists mostly of sharing plates. The menu is a mix of Provençal classics, cooked on the barbecue and stove, revisited with spices and influences from afar. It was an amazing lunch, and we loved the garden setting.
Château de Lourmarin
While in lovely Lournmarin, you can visit the Château for €8. This was the very first Renaissance castle built in Provence. It comprises two sections, including the old wing, built in the late 15th century by Foulques d’Agoult. It is open throughout the year and free for children under 6.
Bastide du Laval, Olive Oils, Cadenet
For a taste of local flavours, visit one of the nearby olive oil mills to sample and purchase some of the region’s finest organic olive oils. We chose Bastide du Laval, which lies in the southern part of the Luberon outside the village of Cadenet.
Back in the last century, it was a vineyard and then a farm, but as demand for Vin de Table declined and olive oil grew, the owners, Carine and Roland, turned over half of the 30 hectares to olives between 1998 and 2000. Now, the estate has over 4000 olive trees.
The mill, visitors’ centre and shop are housed in a delightful old farm in the middle of the estate. Self-guided tours of the Olive Grove offer beautiful views of the Luberon massif. For €25 per person on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, you can pre-order a picnic hamper full of local produce.
Guided tours of the mill are available during the summer (April to the beginning of September) and are followed by a tasting. We really enjoyed our visit!
For the full details, see the full blog post here: Discovering Bastide du Laval, an Organic Olive Oil Mill
Address: Bastide du Laval: 199 Chemin de la Royère 84160 – Cadenet
Website: https://www.bastidedulaval.com
Cadenet
Cadenet, is a picturesque village perched on a hill in the Luberon region. It is a hidden gem brimming with history and charm. Perhaps begin your exploration at the ruins of the medieval château, which offer panoramic views of the Durance River and the surrounding countryside. Stroll through the narrow, winding streets to discover beautiful stone houses, vibrant gardens, and the quaint village square, where local markets come alive with fresh produce and artisan goods. Don’t miss the Romanesque church of Saint-Etienne, which stands as a testament to Cadenet’s rich heritage.
For more information see: https://luberon.fr/communes/cadenet.
Market Day: Monday
Lauris
We enjoyed Lauris, which features an 18th-century castle, the Church of the Purification with its stunning bell tower and 19th-century organs, and the Saint Roch Chapel. You can explore Lauris’s many trails, which offer breathtaking views of Luberon Valley and the Durance River.
Lauris is known for its vibrant cultural scene, with regular art exhibitions, concerts, and festivals celebrating the region’s heritage.
Lauris Market Day: Monday
Recommended Lauris Restaurants
Chez LuLu
We highly recommend you make the trip to enjoy Chez Lulu. The food is of exceptional quality, with great presentation and delicious. The staff are so friendly and welcoming. This was in our top three meals in Luberon.
Chez LuLu website
Where to stay
You will be spoiled for choice; there is something here for all budgets.
La Bastide du Mourre
My Favourite Hotel! You can see our room tour here on IG @littlewanderingwren/Bastidedumourre
Oh, my giddy Aunt, in my life of lovely hotels, La Bastide du Mourre, overlooking the countryside surrounding Oppède le Vieux, will be long remembered for its old-fashioned charm, top comfort, and wellness offerings.
Nestled in the heart of Provence, La Bastide du Mourre is a charming Maison d’Hôtes which offers an appealing blend of rustic elegance and modern comfort.
At Bastide du Mourre, time seems to slow down, allowing you to fully embrace the tranquil pace of Provençal life. Whether you’re here for a romantic getaway, a solo retreat, or with family, this enchanting estate has much to offer. We left all too soon with cherished memories and a longing to return.
For the full details, see the full blog post: Review of Bastide Du Mourre, a Provencal gem.
Arrielles Gordes
This hotel is the perfect hotel for a serene, luxurious celebratory splurge. From its doormen dressed from a bygone era to its welcoming reception team and its setting in the heart of one of the most beautiful villages in France, La Bastide exudes the timeless charm of a typical Provençal Palace, with breathtaking views of the Luberon Massif.
With 40 bespoke rooms and luxury suites showcasing views that take in rugged limestone cliffs, verdant valleys, and a landscape of rolling across hills dotted with ancient olive groves and vineyards. This is the stay of my dreams.
Hotel Le Jas de Gordes
We loved our stay here, which was recently renovated and set on the outskirts of Gordes. They have found the right mix of old and new, and it feels very French, n’est pas?
With only 22 rooms, I liked the boutique feel. A highlight is the heated swimming pool and gardens, which beckon for beautiful relaxation after days of walking up and down Luberon’s cobbled streets. We also thoroughly enjoyed our breakfast on the terrace.
Be aware that no restaurant is on-site, but the bar offers bar snacks. This hotel offers plenty of parking and is a great base to explore the area.
See our full hotel and room tour here.
Le Jas de Joucas
This newly renovated, peaceful hotel is 3 km from Joucas in a beautiful rustic setting within a pine forest. It has a lovely pool with a Provençal view.
Le Moulin de Lourmarin
Thanks to noted architect Jaune, the 18th-century former oil mill has some beautiful design touches. There are 35 rooms and suites here, all slightly different in size but all offering a luxurious Provençal-style with colours that reflect the locality and Ochre hills. The hotel’s central location is a bonus, with the market just outside the back door! You will find a small swimming pool, bikes for loan and e-bikes for hire.
Budget Stays
La Chaumière Lauris
We had a great stay at this Guest house with five rooms. We especially loved wandering this lesser-explored village off the beaten track. La Chaumiere is run by a lovely Belgian couple who are keen to see that you enjoy everything in their area. They helped organise a great car parking place opposite and directed us to a fabulous dinner a few minutes walk away, Chez LuLu.
Our room was the smallest they had, but it was fine for a last-minute, good-value place to sleep. We loved the balcony, the views from the room, and our breakfast on the terrace.
Address: 5 Place du Portail, 84360, Lauris
More information at: La Chamieres website
Le Bouquet de l’Aromate
A comfortable double-bed ensuite room is on offer in a complex with five Chambres d’Hôtes rooms and three Maison Provence holiday homes. The highlight of the stay is the swimming pool area in a lovely garden setting. Each room has a private garden terrace and outdoor furniture.
The staff is great and happy to help with travel plans. The included continental breakfast, which includes baguette and artisanal jams, viennoiseries, homemade cake, regional fruits, fruit juices, and hot drinks, is a nice start to the day. It is also a great location for exploring Luberon.
Bed & Breakfast rate for 1 or 2 people ………. 115€ per night
Address: Le Jas, 84220 Joucas, France
More at www.bouquetaromate
Discovering Luberon
By Car
Driving around Luberon is the most convenient option, offering flexibility and the opportunity to explore the picturesque Provençal countryside.
By Train
France’s high-speed TGV trains make travelling by rail a comfortable and efficient option.
- From Paris:
- Take the TGV from Paris Gare de Lyon to Avignon TGV Station.
- From Avignon TGV Station, rent a car or take a taxi for the remaining 30-minute drive to Bastide du Mourre.
- From Marseille:
- Take a regional TER train from Marseille Saint-Charles Station to Cavaillon.
- From Cavaillon, rent a car or take a taxi to your destination
By Air
For international travellers, flying into Marseille Provence Airport (MRS): 28 km and renting a car is an excellent option.
Local Transportation
While public transportation is available, it is limited in rural areas. We were pleased to have hired a car to explore Luberon.
Thank you for joining us on our exploration of Provence discovering Luberon. We hope this guide has inspired you to visit, discover, and fall in love with this remarkable region.
Until your next adventure, au revoir and bon voyage!
Disclosure: Little Wandering Wren was a Destination Luberon guest and received a hosted stay. All opinions are my own. A grand merci beaucoup from us!
Follow us on Social Media: Find more photos of my travels and stories on Instagram @littlewanderingwren.
Travels in France – 9 -26 June 2024
For more travels in France, please see :
A guide to the Ochre Trails of Luberon
Discovering Bastide du Laval, an Organic Olive Oil Mill
A review of Bastide du Mourre, Luberon
How to Get The Best From A 48-Hour Avignon City Pass.
4 comments
Hello Wren,
A wonderful detailed report and travel guide for Luberon. Beautiful photos! Take care, have a great day!
Hello Eileen, Thank you so much for your lovely comment! I’m glad you enjoyed the report and travel guide for Luberon. It’s such a picturesque region, and I’ts one of those places you can’t stop taking pictures! I’m happy the photos captured its beauty. Wishing you a wonderful day as well!
Wren x
Wow such an interesting article about this wonderful region in France!
Thank you so much Inge for your kind words! I’m thrilled to hear you found the article interesting, it certainly was fun to compile. The Luberon region truly is a gem with its beautiful landscapes, charming villages, and rich culture.
Happy wanders yourself!
Wren x