Montpellier Magic – things to see, do, and love on your city break.
Are you planning to visit Montpellier in Southern France? We think you should! In this article, I will share our itinerary and tips for discovering magnificent Montpellier!
We very much like this area of Southern France for its joie de vivre ambience, remarkable history and architecture, sunny days, and great food and wine in the Languedoc region.
We had never before lingered to explore the city, thinking the greatest fascinations lay in the surrounding cities. So when Office de Tourisme & des Congrès Montpellier invited us to spend a few days discovering Montpellier, we accepted with intrigue and a big Merci Beaucoup!
Getting to know Montpellier
We set the brief to include culture, history, and the arts, some time out in the countryside, a view of the Mediterranean, and, of course, some fabulous food and wine. We spent the whole time asking, ‘Why haven’t we stayed here before?’
The short answer is that we typically fly into Montpellier, a quick hop, skip, and a jump from Gatwick in the UK, and then head off to tour the ancient Roman cities of Arles (provincial capital of ancient Rome), Carcassonne, Nimes, and Uzes further afield.
Montpellier, as we discovered, has a younger history and is very much the sort of city where if you take the time to stop and wander, you will find heaps to enjoy.
How long should you spend here?
I would spend 3-4 days in Montpellier, but spending longer and enjoying more of the surrounding countryside, beaches, and vineyards is easy.
In this post, you will find what we identified as the top things to do in Montpellier. Thank you for joining me.
The sunshine
Visitors must be chuffed to note that Montpellier is famed for 300 days or more of sunshine per year. We were blessed with ideal conditions for our June visit, and we hope you find the same!
Discovering Magnificent Montpellier is a great city to wander!
Montpellier is a deserved choice for teams and fans alike. From the moment we arrived at Gare St Roch, we walked out to find one of the largest pedestrianised zones in Europe.
We loved walking without a plan and enjoying the city streets. The old historic centre morphs into the new Antigone District. Both are incredible in their own ways.
There is all the youthful energy that comes with one of France’s top university cities. Magnificent Montpellier is the 7th-largest city in France and has grown rapidly over the past 25 years.
Montpellier’s spirit seems to be a youthful mix and lively buzz of a student city, combined with a laid-back, breezy beach lifestyle created by its proximity to the Mediterranean Sea. We found vineyards, ancient Abbayes, and a chateau to explore. As well as one of the most extensive art galleries we have ever been in. We enjoyed fabulous food, the trams were easy to use, and you could cycle to the beaches.
Montpellier embraces any excuse for a festival. The What’s On in Montpellier guide is brimming with ideas for enjoying each week’s music, dance, theatre, shows, and events for everyone and for all tastes! While we were there, we saw endless musicians wandering around carrying large instruments, heading off to perform in a Brass Band festival.
Visiting Montpellier
Montpellier Tourism Office
The Montpellier Tourism Office at Place de la Comédie was a great way to start our trip. They provided us with maps and directions for everything we needed to see and do. They also have a great gift shop and a range of local products. I couldn’t resist my Montpellier bag!
Whilst there, we recommend buying a 𝘔𝘰𝘯𝘵𝘱𝘦𝘭𝘭𝘪𝘦𝘳 𝘊𝘪𝘵𝘺 𝘊𝘢𝘳𝘥 which 𝘨𝘪𝘷𝘦𝘴 𝘺𝘰𝘶 𝘧𝘳𝘦𝘦 𝘦𝘯𝘵𝘳𝘺 & 𝘥𝘪𝘴𝘤𝘰𝘶𝘯𝘵𝘴 𝘢𝘤𝘳𝘰𝘴𝘴 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘤𝘪𝘵𝘺.
Montpellier City Card Pass
You can choose a 24-, 48, or 72-hour City Card, which includes free public transport for each card.
City Card top tips
Our top three highlights using the city card were:
- Fabre Museum, including the nearby Hôtel Sabatier d’Espeyran Museum
- Guided City Tour & Contemporary Montpellier
- L’Abre Blanc Rooftop Bar
Compared with other City Cards in France, we were not as successful in ticking off everything included with the card. This was because there was so much else to see and do in Montpellier.
Also included with the City Card
We did venture to the gardens at Chateau de Flaugergues, but I found our journey using the tram and walking hot and exhausting; it would have been more accessible by car. The day we visited, a well-attended event on the grounds detracted from the ambience of the gardens. I would enjoy a return for wine tasting and a tour of the chateau.
Sadly, the Mo.Co. museum was temporarily closed during our stay, but we did enjoy a wander in the garden, and the restaurant was popular. We would plan to return to enjoy the fabulous exhibitions.
We did venture to Chateau de Flaugergues, but I found our journey using the tram and walking exhausting; it would have been easier by car. On arrival, there was a well-attended event on the grounds, which was interesting but detracted from the ambience of the gardens.
We found a card representing a good value purchase and offering a 10-40% discount with tourism partners such as the Tourism Train and the audio guide at Magualeone Cathedral. Next time we return, we will use their City Pass Audio Guide to explore the historical centre.
Our Top 7 things to see and do and discover in Montpellier
1. Le Petit Trip Velo Taxi
Our top experience in Montpellier was joining Natalie for her City Tour by Velo Taxi. One of the first things you notice about Montpellier is that whilst this is a great city for walking, there is much to see. The Montpellier sights are pretty spread out. Here, Natalie and her Velo Taxi come to your assistance.
Sitting comfortably in the egg-shaped bike scooter, Natalie pedals with electric assistance. It is a great way to get around in comfort and style. As we meander our way through the back streets of Montpellier, Natalie brings Street Art to life with the stories behind the paintings.
It’s a fabulous idea because Le Petit Trip velo bike can go (almost) everywhere. We were on roads, pavements, and bike paths. Everyone loves seeing the 𝐕𝐞𝐥𝐨 𝐁𝐢𝐤𝐞, and they smile, wave, and chat as you pass by.
This is such a unique experience. Instead of just looking at the sights and watching the passers-by, it is like seeing a movie about everyday life in Montpellier—one where you are in the movie and get to know the main characters!
Nathalie, a Montpellier native, seems to know everyone and is so knowledgeable. She is an excellent ambassador for the city. I know we’d hit it off, as Natalie has the same taste in Montpellier bags as me!
It’s a great way to see many sights in a short time:
📌 Montpellier 𝐒𝐭𝐫𝐞𝐞𝐭 𝐀𝐫𝐭
📌 𝐀𝐧𝐭𝐢𝐠𝐨𝐧𝐞 𝐝𝐢𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐭
📌 𝐋𝐞𝐳 𝐫𝐢𝐯𝐞𝐫 banks & Hôtel de Région
📌 𝐏𝐨𝐫𝐭 𝐌𝐚𝐫𝐢𝐚𝐧𝐧𝐞 & Jacques Coeur basin
📌 𝐌𝐨𝐧𝐭𝐩𝐞𝐥𝐥𝐢𝐞𝐫 𝐂𝐢𝐭𝐲 𝐇𝐚𝐥𝐥
More on my Instagram post here.
2. Guided City Tour & Contemporary Montpellier
Our city tour was arranged through the Montpellier Méditerranée Tourist Office with our City Pass. Our tour guide, Marie-Hélène, was excellent. We enjoyed discovering a thousand years of history in a few hours. Oh, we walked and walked and walked!
We found the city’s contrasts fascinating, from the medieval 𝐦𝐢𝐤𝐯𝐞, a ceremonial Jewish bath dating from the 13th Century, to the Contemporary city. It was with Marie-Hélène that we began to understand the influences of the old universities.
3. Wandering the old cathedral area
Montpellier’s historic centre is called the Écusson. These narrow streets, intimate squares, and old fountains offer something new at every turn.
Make sure you leave time in your Montpellier days to enjoy a wander here with no set plan. You will be amazed at what you discover. Maybe it’s one of a few half bikes appearing from a wall, or perhaps you’ll decide to photograph like me, the street names, each embellished with Lego street art, to raise a smile.
Cathédrale Saint-Pierre.
Montpellier’s most well-known church is the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre. The scale of the Gothic building’s exterior columns will impress and remind you of a fortress. This structure was originally a 14th-century church that was part of a monastery. A few centuries later, it was transformed into a cathedral. Saint-Pierre was damaged during the Wars of Religion, which led to parts of the structure being rebuilt. It is free to enter.
More on my Instagram post here.
La Promenade du Peyrou
The park is worth a wander if you want to see the 18th-century aqueduct on one end and its very own Arc de Triomphe on the other. Daily fruit and vegetable markets show off the colours and scents of Southern France, while the Saturday flea market gives visitors a chance to pick up some local artefacts and souvenirs to take home.
4. Bike Tour to discover the Mediterranean
We enjoyed cycling to the beach at Palavas-les-Flots, just 13 km from the town centre. I wanted an e-bike and a helmet; we hired our bikes from Smile eBike, which we can recommend. Excellent service and directions, not that you can get lost, it’s find the river and peddle towards the sea!
Otherwise, you can use the inexpensive Vélomagg service from one of 57 automatic bike stands around the city. For this, you need to download an App using your credit card. I reckon these bikes are more suitable for short city rides, although we certainly did see people take them to the beach!
For most of the way, you follow the cycle track starting at Port Marianne along the Lez. The ride takes around 45 minutes to an hour. It’s a lovely ride, sharing the path with walkers, dogs, and some speedy Tour De France types!
The cycle route takes us alongside lagoons famous for wildlife, particularly stunning pink flamingos.
More on my Instagram post here.
Maguelone Peninsula
We cycled to lunch at Comptoir Des Campagnons on the Maguelone Peninsula. It’s a popular choice and there’s a queue to be seated. The service and the cuisine are provided by people with disabilities supervised by instructors. Sadly the food was only average. However the setting amongst the Domaine de Maguelone vineyard was a wonderful and welcome sight after all that peddling, and we loved the ethos of the restaurant.
To add to its appeal we wander next door to the supersized Saint-Pierre de Maguelone cathedral, cherished by locals for the annual Festival of Ancient Music.
Palavas-les-Flots
After lunch, we cycled to the popular seaside town of Palavas les Flots, hoping to find a lovely beach. However, we might have been better off staying at the quieter beach on the Magualone Peninsula, with its sandy shores and birdlife.
Stopping on the way, Mr. Wren is intrigued by the cars and senses we might be missing out on something. I guard the bikes, and he follows, heading to the beach over the sand dunes. He returns red-faced, having ended up on a nudist beach. Oh la la!
We retreat to a wonderful ice cream shop in town and, with the cycle home ahead of us, decide to leave our seaside adventures to another day. Subsequently, we are told L’Espiguette Beach is about 40 minutes from the Montpellier city center by car and is often ranked as one of the most scenic beaches in all of France—the place to go!
5. Musée Fabre
Musée Fabre is one of magnificent Montpellier’s top attractions. You’ll not want to miss one of the country’s biggest and finest fine art collections. Its huge collection was even a tad overwhelming when we were plunged into room upon room of Old Masters together with a wave of excitable school kids.
Luckily, help was on hand. An English-speaking security guard gave us a quick overview of the museum. His enthusiasm was infectious, and he explained that the museum houses an evolution of art since the Renaissance. We returned to the entrance at his suggestion to pick up the Practical Guide to Visiting the Museum.
Having had the overview, we redoubled our energy in search of the pre-eminent paintings, sculptures, and drawings from the 14th to 21st centuries, including Monet, Rubens, Degas, and Brueghel. The museum also houses Contemporary painting techniques, including geometric abstraction and those that reduce composition to a form or a colour field.
Musee Fabre is Open Tuesday – Sunday, 10.00-18.00
This is easily a museum that you could lose yourself in ALL day, but we had places to see and people to meet…
Hôtel Cabrières-Sabatier d’Espeyran
Close to Musee Fabree is the 19th-century mansion, Hôtel Cabrières-Sabatier d’Espeyran.
We could have missed this little gem had it not been included on our City Pass. It houses the decorative arts department of the Musée Fabre in Montpellier. It’s a step back in time, and I enjoyed discovering the living environments of bourgeois and aristocratic societies of the 18th and 19th centuries.
This historic residence is worth a quick wizz around!
6. L’Arbre Blanc
One of our most memorable times in Montpellier was sunset drinks at 𝐋’𝐀𝐫𝐛𝐫𝐞 𝐁𝐥𝐚𝐧𝐜 rooftop bar. If you have a City Pass a glass of red, white, or rose wine is complimentary on the house.
You can’t miss the building, an exciting addition to the skyline. I’ve seen it described as Montpellier madness. I think it’s magic! The winning design of a Montpellier city council competition asked for a modern folly.
This 17-floor building houses 113 apartments. The locals told me the ground restaurant has a good reputation.
More on my Instagram here.
The Languedoc-Roussillon Wine region!
The Languedoc-Roussillon region around Montpellier is the biggest wine-producing region in the world. Montpellier they are more modest vin de pays, or “country wines.”
Discovering places to eat in Montpellier
You are hard-pressed to have a bad meal in Montpellier, especially if you love seafood. The local cuisine is full of local catch-of-the-day and shellfish options from the nearby sea that are grilled or used in stews.
Menu Du Jour
Much as we love going out to dinner, we often find the menu du jour in local restaurants at lunchtime hard to pass up! Offering a prix-fixe menu at a reduced price using whatever is fresh that day is a bargain.
If you like to wander and see where you end up, then take a stroll into the streets just west of Place de la Comédie – where Rue du Plan d’Agde and Rue Jules Latreilhe are festooned with options.
Some fine dining dinner choices
Fine dining
For those who like to research and meticulously plan meals out, check out two options: Le Clere and Le Bistro Urbain, both included in the Michelin Guide.
L’Entrecote
You’ll not miss a large queue for L’entrecote if you pass through the area; there is no booking here. A bit of an Institution a unique formula unchanged for more than 50 years: walnut salad, finely trimmed sirloin (slice of beef of 170 grams) accompanied by its famous sauce with the composition kept secret, homemade fries at will, or finish with dessert prepared by our pastry chefs’. 22 Euros per person
We found this restaurant because it was recommended on a bulletin board in our hotel, and we were not disappointed. We thought the steak was fabulous, and we were charmed by our waiter, the endless matchstick chips, and the whole experience. At 22 Euros per person, we thought it was good value. However, L’entrecote has mixed reviews, so buyer beware!
Le Petit Jardin
Le Petit Jardin was recommended by friends and is found near the old medical school. This restaurant has elegant decor and this garden restaurant is best in good weather. Delicious menu and charming staff. On our list for our next visit!
Bars in magnificent Montpellier
Looking for Rugby Action? Check out the bars clustered around Place de la Comédie, Place Castellane, and Place Jean Jaurès.
The bars on our list are Rhum Runner (known for its Rum expertise), Mi Barrio (a Spanish Wine bar and Tapas restaurant), Bonsoir, and Cafe Joseph, as recommended by Nezha, our lovely host at Villa Magnolia.
Discovering where to stay in Montpellier
We took our time choosing where to stay in Montpellier. There is a wide range of accommodation, from budget hotels to upscale lodging. The Guide from the Tourism offices indicates the investment in lodging in the city in recent years, with several hotels marked as newly renovated.
The city is divided into seven distinct districts, and the central district called L’Écusson is generally seen as the best for basing yourself as a tourist.
Villa Magnolia B & B Montpellier
Newly opened last year, 𝐕𝐢𝐥𝐥𝐚 𝐌𝐚𝐠𝐧𝐨𝐥𝐢𝐚 is spotlessly clean and lovely. This is a boutique stay with a modern French flair in the suburbs of Montpellier. I was attracted by the idea of starting our visit to Montpellier with a relaxing stay by the swimming pool after a busy few weeks of travel.
There is a choice of just five rooms, with a maximum of 12 guests.
Each room is different, and you can tell a lot of thought has gone into its design. Book early; our room was the last room available. We had a fantastic check-in and service from our host, Nezha, who made us feel really welcome.
𝗪𝐫𝐞𝐧’𝐬 𝐯𝐢𝐞𝐰: This was such a memorable Guest House stay. I loved all the design flair and functionality, from bedside USB port sockets to a fabulous walk-in shower, a comfortable king-sized bed, tea and coffee, and filtered water, both still and sparkling, available beside the pool. The WiFi was good. A fabulous breakfast is included.
We took the evening 𝐌𝐞𝐧𝐮 𝐝𝐮 𝐒𝐨𝐢𝐫 dinner option, a fabulous 3-course dinner for €25.
𝐕𝐢𝐥𝐥𝐚 𝐌𝐚𝐠𝐧𝐨𝐥𝐢𝐚 is best suited to those with their own transport or who are looking to live in a quiet residential area. It’s 5km from the City Centre, with parking, or accessible via a Tram and bus.
Aparthotel Adagio Access Montpellier Centre
We enjoyed our stay at Aparthotel Adagio. It was newly renovated and centrally located, with Saint Roch train station a 15-minute walk away and the historic centre just 20 minutes away. Highly recommended for a good value stay.
‘The Adagio Access Montpellier Center offers 102 new apartments. All are equipped with air conditioning and an equipped kitchen; rooms are available for up to 4 people.
Getting around in Montpellier
One of the great things about Montpellier was the ease of travel. Whilst it’s a great city for walking courtesy of one of the largest pedestrianised zones in Europe, it’s a large city. But do not fear; there are four tram lines, and you’ll never be too far from where you want to go using the tram. To make it easy, each tram line in Montpellier is a different colour to help riders get the right line.
Where is Montpellier?
Montpellier is the capital of the southern French region of Languedoc-Rousillon now part of the Occitanie region and famous for its up-and-coming wines. This region is less touristy and less expensive than neighbouring Provence.
Travel to Montpellier
Distances in France are always surprisingly big. Paris to Montpellier is 465 miles (748 kilometers).
Arriving by Train
We are big fans of train travel in France. From Paris, we took the TGV to Lyon and Avignon and a local train to Montpellier. In our experience, French trains are comfortable, reliable, and a good value.
There is also a high-speed TGV Train from Paris and Barcelona, which takes about three hours to travel from either city.
Make sure you get a train that stops at Gare St Roch, NOT Gare Sud de France which is 6km outside the city.
Arriving by Air
Montpellier has been discovered by the world. Check out the Montpellier Airport website for direct and connecting flights to Paris and Barcelona, as well as other major cities around Europe—depending on the season—including Amsterdam, Madrid, and London.
We departed by EasyJet from Montpellier-Méditerranée Airport to London Gatwick.
We took a taxi to the airport, which cost 35€. You can also take a Navette Aéroport bus from Place de l’Europe, which takes 15 minutes and costs 1,60€. However, the infrequent service, once per hour, meant we decided a taxi was the best option.
We were 45 minutes late leaving, but otherwise, everything was fine. We liked Montpellier airport; it was clean and bright, with smooth check-in and immigration.
Montpellier final thoughts
We discovered that Montpellier was more than a great place to arrive in Southern France. It was a worthy destination in its own right. We found Montpelliérains proud of their city. Our tour guides for both the city tour and Le Petit Trip were fantastic ambassadors.
Magnificent Montpellier is ever-evolving and updating. While we were there, parts of the central Place de la Comédie were cordoned off for building works. This is not a city that rests on its laurels. You will find a city constantly changing, with plenty on offer. I hope you enjoy Montpellier as much as we did.
Have you visited Montpellier? We would love to know about your experience in the comments below or leave a comment on our social media channels @littlewanderingwren on Instagram and Facebook.
Disclaimer: Little Wandering Wren was a guest of Office de Tourism & Congress Montpellier Mediterranean Metropole all opinions are my own.
For more Southern France wanderings check out Wandering Lyon and Wandering Avignon.
Follow us on Social Media: Find more photos of my travels and stories on Instagram @littlewanderingwren.
4 comments
Hello Wren,
Montpellier looks beautiful, I enjoyed your tour and the beautiful photos. Take care, have a great weekend.
Thank you so much Eileen Montpellier was marvellous for a few days this summer, we loved it. I am glad you enjoyed the tour too.
Wren x
A very comprehensive guide 🙂
All the best Jan
Thanks Jan, we had a fabulous time in Montpellier, it was worth getting to know the city better. I’m glad you found the guide comprehensive and hope it helps those planning on visiting.
Have a lovely week.
Wren x