Why Visit Tarn & Garonne?
Hidden in southwest France, Tarn and Garonne is a region bursting with charm, history, and lovely rural landscapes. It’s a marvellous destination for those who enjoy holidays in France and are looking for somewhere new and lesser known. Often overshadowed by its more famous neighbours, the department of Tarn and Garonne offers a quieter yet equally beautiful experience. Join us on a road trip through this picturesque area, where each stop promises a new discovery.
Day One: Unearthing the Treasures of Tarn-et-Garonne
Moissac – start with a Wow.
On a good run, it’s less than an hour to Moissac (72 km) from Toulouse, and you’ll start at one of Tarn and Garonne’s historical highlights, the UNESCO Abbey de Moissac.
We arrived on market day and found the streets packed, but happy days, we found free on-street parking at the Tarn River and enjoyed our wander into the town centre. We crossed the bridge over the Canal de Garonne, stopping to admire the peaceful scenes as the narrow boats cruised quietly by. Even on a rainy day, we could see the allure and delights of Moissac, a major stop on the Camino to Santiago de Compostela walk.
Read more on Moissac – City of Art and History.
Tourist information Office: https://tourisme-moissac-terresdesconfluences.fr/fr
What to see, do and love
Abbey of Saint-Pierre.
Start your journey here—Moissac Abbey is one of the region’s top attractions. Founded in the 7th century, this abbey was a significant religious site in France for centuries and is a key stop on the pilgrimage route. It’s truly a “wow” experience!
Your entrance ticket includes access to the cloister, the upper room of the bell tower, and the side chapels, each offering fascinating historical insights. Plan to spend at least an hour exploring.
Be sure to admire the intricate carvings on the Abbey’s tympanum (entrance portal), which are masterpieces of Romanesque sculpture. With their magical atmosphere, the stunning cloisters feel like something straight out of a Harry Potter movie!
We were fortunate it was raining during our visit; the quiet, almost deserted abbey and the rain added a solemn, serene ambience as we wandered past the ancient arches.
You can see more on my IG video here: https://www.instagram.com/wanderingmoissac.
Entry Cost: Adult €6.
Audio guide: You can either visit with an audio-guided tour of the tympanum and cloister available in French, English, German, Spanish, and Japanese, which costs an additional €2 or join a guided tour every day at 2:30 p.m.
Website: https://www.abbayemoissac.com
Canal de Garonne
Rent a bike and ride along the canal, enjoying the peaceful scenery. With a pretty marina, Moissac is ideal for walking along the Canal of the Two Seas (Canal de Garonne). Don’t miss the impressive Pont-Canal du Cacor on the outskirts of Moissac. At 356 meters long, it’s the third longest “pont canal” in France, allowing canal boats on the Canal de Garonne to cross the River Tarn.
Moissac Market
Discover the weekly Moissac Market each Saturday. This is a major fruit-growing area in France. If cherries and apricots are in season, look out for them.
Tasting Local Delights: Don’t miss trying the famous Chasselas grapes, a local speciality.
If markets are your thing, you can find details of all the Tarn and Garonne weekly markets here.
Where to eat
Le Florentin in Moissac
We got the last seat in this popular award-winning bistrot, and it was lovely sitting overlooking the ancient square in front of the Saint Pierre Abbey. We felt it was a real taste trip into the regional cuisine of Tarn and Garonne’s South West cuisine.
Address: 8 place Roger Delthil – 82 200 MOISSAC
Website: www.leflorentin-bistrotgourmand
Montauban – The Pink City
Why visit Montauban?
The next stop is Montauban, the capital of Tarn and Garonne, 31 km away (approximately a 35-minute drive). Known as the “Pink City” due to its distinctive brick buildings, Montauban has nine centuries of rich and eventful history to discover. We loved how the architectural heritage has been well preserved.
Montauban has an arty side, which we enjoyed. While we visited, a music festival was taking place in the Jardin des Plantes gardens. The streets are blooming lovely, too — it’s such a colourful and green city! We loved wandering the streets in search of street art and statues.
Montauban is our sort of place, you could easily spend several days here.
For more photos of our Montauban wanders, see www.instagram.com/littlewanderingwren/montauban/
Montauban Tourist Information Office
Start at the friendly Tourist Information Office for the latest What’s on and pick up the walking tour maps. The maps include street art and the 40-plus statues scattered throughout the city streets.
Bourdelle sculpture walk: https://www.montauban-tourisme.com/en/discover/street-art/the-sculptures/
Address: Office de Tourisme de Montauban 4, rue du collège – 82000 Montauban
Website: www.montauban-tourisme.com
What to see, do and love
Ingres Bourdelle Museum
One of the top attractions here is the Ingres Bourdelle Museum, housed in a former bishop’s palace. This colourful museum showcases the works of Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, a native of Montauban, alongside sculptures and artefacts related to sculptor Antoine Bourdelle, who you can also spot on your wanders throughout the city.
Address: Musée Ingres Bourdelle, 19 rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, 82000 Montauban
Website: https://museeingresbourdelle.com
Stroll along the Tarn River
The scenic riverbank is perfect for a leisurely walk or a picnic. Look for the gorgeous view of the former Bishop’s Palace from the Pont-Vieux (old bridge).
Place Nationale
This beautifully preserved medieval square, along with its stunning architecture, is the pink heart of the city. Charming arcaded buildings surround it, and there are plenty of places to stop for a coffee or a meal.
Notre Dame Cathedral
You won’t miss the strikingly different architecture of Notre Dame Cathedral. Its white stones and green roofs contrast with the surrounding buildings. The cathedral is currently closed for renovations (June 2024)
Montauban Shopping
If you are looking for souvenirs, Montauban offers great shopping opportunities! The Drogeurie Couderc is like stepping back in time. It is such an attractive shop – part hardware store, part gift shop.
Address: 43 Rue de la Résistance, 82000 Montauban, France
Where to eat
Les Terrasses de l’Empereur
We had such a lovely dinner at Les Terrasses del”Empereur, only a 3-minute walk from Notre Dame Cathedral. They specialise in offering local, seasonal market cuisine in a trés français setting. The food was excellent, and the staff was super friendly. Highly recommended
Address: 2 Republic Street, 82000 Montauban, France (found on the first floor with lift access)
Website: www.les-terrasses-de-lempereur
Where to stay
Hotel du Commerce
The three-star hotel (still known locally as Hotel George) is in a great central location. Our room overlooked the Cathedral square. It has friendly staff, a newish renovation, and some wacky animal paintings on the walls in a nod to Montauban’s reputation for its art.
There is a city car park underneath Place Franklin Roosevelt.
Address: 9 Place Franklin Roosevelt – 82000 Montauban
Website: www.hotel-commerce-montauban
Hotel and Room tour video: www.instagram.com/littlewanderingwren/hotelducommerce/
Day Two Exploring Montauban and Bruniquel: Gems of Tarn-et-Garonne
Spend the morning enjoying more of the sights of Montauban above before the 30-minute drive to Bruniquel (28 km).
Bruniquel
Why is Bruniquel so special
Bruniquel is another one of the ‘𝘗𝘭𝘶𝘴 𝘉𝘦𝘢𝘶𝘹 𝘝𝘪𝘭𝘭𝘢𝘨𝘦𝘴 𝘥𝘦 𝘍𝘳𝘢𝘯𝘤𝘦’, and its medieval enchanting cobbled streets will not disappoint you! Nor will the stunning views. Forest, caves and nature surround this hilltop village.
What you should see
Wandering around Bruniquel, you can’t fail to be impressed by its medieval houses’ magnificent facades and be prepared for the uphill walk. They have an excellent Tourist Information Office who can sort you out with a map of the town.
Les Châteaux de Bruniquel
You should not miss Les Châteaux de Bruniquel, where two stunning castles await. Yes, not one, but two castles stand side by side and dominate the river Aveyron. You can learn all about the history during your visit. We love the garden art and the temporary exhibition inside. The castles welcome four permanent exhibitions and also house temporary exhibitions of art and photos in the summer months.
The castle’s gardens are also worth a wander.
€5.50 Entrance includes an audio guide
Address: Rue du château 82800 BRUNIQUEL
Website: www.bruniquel.fr/les-chateaux-de-bruniquel/
Where to eat
Chez Pigassou
This is a lovely find for a healthy and hearty lunch salad. It includes large salads, stuffed vegetables, and peach and raspberry salads. They serve traditional French cuisine based on local specialities. We were very happy with our lunch here.
Address: 8 Rue de L’hopital, 82800 Bruniquel
Taverne du Temps
Well ranked on Trip Advisor, we can’t vouch for the food, but we found this a welcome break for a cuppa and an ice cream after the climb to Les Chateaux. It is right in the middle of the village, with great village and valley views.
Address: 14, rue de l’hôpital, 82800 Bruniquel
L’Etape du château dining
L’Etape du Château offers a table d’hôtes menu. We had a lovely dinner here. They offer family-style cuisine from the southwest, crafted with local ingredients.
Breakfast is included in your room; dinner is €25 per person, and picnic baskets are available upon request.
Where to stay
L’Etape du Château Guest house
L’Etape du Château is the town’s number one rated Bed and Breakfast. We were very happy with our stay in the dark room, which had a dual orientation over the village’s roofs and ramparts. It was a clean, modern, quiet guest house in a great location on the edge of the village. They also have a spa and sauna available at an extra charge. There is a good bar on the premises and very friendly owners, who let us have a go at conversation with our less-than-perfect French.
The large dining room serves Continental breakfast and dinner daily if pre-booked.
See the room tour video here: https://www.instagram.com/p/C9W-wdvM_KT/
Address: 8 promenade du Ravelin – 82800 Bruniquel
See the website for prices and further details: www.etape-du-chateau.com
Day Three: Hats, Historic Timber-Framed Houses, Lavender, and a Manor House Stay
Caussade, Tarn and Garonne
Caussade is known worldwide for its hat factories and truffle market. In the XIX century, Caussade made straw hats for French actors, such as Maurice Chevalier, and rich Paris ladies. Today, the hat festival in July invites artists and designers worldwide to present their best creations at the art show.
We liked our visit so much we have written a whole blog post on what to see, do and love in Caussade: Exploring Caussade: the heart of French hat making.
Why visit Caussade
The town of Caussade, the historical heart of French hat-making, is a must-visit for any hat enthusiast. Located only an hour north of Toulouse, this charming town rose to fame in the 19th century for its truffles and straw hat production.
What to see, do and love in Caussade
L’Épopée Chapelière Hat Museum
To learn more about the history of hat making in Caussade, start your day at the amazing L’Épopée Chapelière Museum inside the Tourist Information Office. Here, you will discover the creation and history of the straw hat factories in Quercy Caussade. You can take a self-guided tour wearing a real canotier straw hat with a built-in audio guide.
Cost per Entry €4 per adult
Address: Chapeliers Square – Les Récollets 82300 Caussade
Hats Block Laforest
This workshop and store are located in the historic centre of town, in a 13th-century house. If you are lucky, hatmaker Didier Laforest might be on hand to show you inside his incredible workshop.
Guided Tours
You can arrange a visit via contact@hatsblocks.com or at Caussade’s Tourist Information Centre. Mondays June – October at 2 pm Cost €4.
Website: www.hatsblock.fr
Address: 37 Republic Street, 82300 CAUSSADE
Chapellier Willy’s Paris
This is a mad hatter warehouse, where you could quite possibly find anything and any colour of the hat.
Guided Tours
Guided tours are available every Thursday from June to September at 10:30 a.m., with reservations through the Tourist Office.€3/person.
Note: The shop is closed for lunch between 12:30 – 14:30. Tours cost €3 per person.
Address: 63 General Leclerc Avenue 82300 CAUSSADE
Read more about Willy’s Hat Maker here.
Maison Crambes
This French manufacturer of hats and caps has been going since 1946. We loved our tour here, and Mr Wren bought himself a new straw hat for summer events.
Guided tours
Guided factory tours: Wednesdays and Fridays from June to September at 10 a.m., with a minimum of 10 people. Group tours are possible. Reservations at the Tourist Office: 05 63 26 04 04.
Contact: accueil@chapeaux-crambes.fr
Address: 42 Avenue Mal de Lattre de Tassigny, 82300 Caussade
Where to eat
La Table d’Alice in Caussade
We had a lovely menu du jour lunch at La Table d’Alice, which has an outdoor terrace in summer. The cuisine is high-quality and made from regional products. When it’s sunny, you can enjoy a pleasant shaded terrace in the heart of Caussade.
Website: www.latabledalice.com
Lauzerte – A Medieval Jewel
Why visit Lauzerte?
Head to Lauzerte, 43 km from Caussade, to discover another of France’s 𝘗𝘭𝘶𝘴 𝘉𝘦𝘢𝘶𝘹 𝘝𝘪𝘭𝘭𝘢𝘨𝘦𝘴. Today, it’s celebrated for its artisans, breathtaking views, and local produce, especially Chasselas grapes and Quercy melons.
Perched above the valleys and hills of Quercy Blanc, this medieval bastide, or fortified village, has wonderful views of the rolling countryside. For 500 years, Lauzerte was a defensive stronghold, a bustling trade centre, and a regional court. A cannon in the barbican, dating back to the late 12th century, stands as a reminder of its fortified past.
Nowadays, it is known for its arts and crafts workshops, giving the village a quirky, artistic atmosphere.
What to see, do and love in Lauzerte
Wandering Lauzerte
Wander the cobble streets amongst the well-preserved medieval buildings in search of timber-framed houses and admire wrought iron signs and whimsical Capuchin Friar sculptures.
Place des Cornieres
This medieval “bastide” features a charming central square, Place des Cornieres, with timber-framed houses. Look out for a unique, uplifted corner of cobblestone paving – that’s different!
Explore the Artists’ Workshops
Lauzerte is known for its thriving arts community. Wander through the narrow streets and pop into various ateliers, where you can watch artists at work and purchase unique local crafts.
Art Gallery Points of View
Lauzerte holds temporary exhibitions from May to October each year. In 2024, the worlds of 18 artists are on display. Their creations are presented in four very varied exhibitions at the Viewpoints Space.
From June to September 2024, portraits by photographer Hans Silvester taken in the Omo Valley (Ethiopia) were found on the walls and streets of Lauzerte, with the theme of “Nature’s Adornments.”
Address: 5 rue de la Mairie – 82110 LAUZERTE
Check out all upcoming events, including concerts and workshops, at www.artpointsdevue.com
Lauzerte Markets
Don’t miss the Saturday Farmers’ Market year-round or the “marché gourmand” on Thursday evenings in July and August. These are lively village markets where you can sample local produce, including fresh fruits, cheeses, and artisan goods. It’s a great way to experience the local culture.
Visit the Pilgrim Garden (Le Jardin du Pèlerin)
Reflect on the town’s history as a stop on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. Stroll through its peaceful paths, dotted with sculptures and plants representing the spiritual journey.
Where to eat
Lauzertes’ inviting restaurants will tempt you to linger a little longer.
At 6 Place des Cornières, you will find Restaurant L’Etincelle, one of the best-rated restaurants in the heart of Lauzerte. Other suggestions include the traditional Tarn and Garonne food found at Hotel Restaurant Du Quercy, a popular stop off on the pilgrims’ trail for its good lunch menu.
The Details
See more on Little Wandering Wren’s IG Reel – Lauzerte.
Website: www.quercy-sud-ouest.com
La Ferme de Lacontal – Lavender Farm
We loved La Ferme de Lacontal so much that we devoted an entire blog post to it: Happy Wanders, La Ferme de Lacontal is a lavender lover’s delight.
A visit to La Ferme de Lacontal ticks all my happy holiday boxes. Enjoy the breathtaking lavender fields managed by Helene Lafon and her family. They follow their grandparents’ legacy, cultivating organic officinal lavender and practising polyculture with their Lacaune sheep. Visitors are encouraged to follow the 𝘧𝘢𝘳𝘮 𝘤𝘩𝘢𝘳𝘵𝘦𝘳, focusing on minimizing their impact on the environment.
You can enjoy a guided tour, witness the distillation process, and support their work by purchasing exquisite lavender products.
The farm is open Thursday to Saturday year-round from 2 PM to 6 PM. (with extended opening days Monday – Saturday in June, July and August)
Visit in June or July to witness the lavender in full bloom.
Website: www.lavande-quercy.fr
Address: Lacontal Farm – 1766 church road – 82190 Touffailles
See more on our IG Post here: https://www.instagram.com/littlewanderingwren/LavenderLaContal/
Where to stay
Le Manoir Saint-Jean
A short drive of 20 km from the Lacontal Lavender Farm brings us to the grand manor house of Saint Jean at Saint Paul d’espis. This charming stay was a highlight of our Occitanie holiday. There are 10 rooms, and each is named and styled uniquely with a different theme to represent Asia, Romance, Venice, Tuscany and more. Madame Morgades, the welcoming owner, has a background in antiques and has filled the manor with fascinating furniture and art pieces.
Our suite room, “Provence“, was well-appointed and huge. It had a spacious ensuite bathroom and a small sitting area.
The Grounds
The extensive gardens are perfect for a wander and feature an inviting outdoor swimming pool. We really enjoyed Evening drinks on the verandah overlooking the gardens.
The Food
The dining room (one guest said it was reminiscent of Monet’s) offers regional dishes made with fresh, organic local market produce. An extensive wine list perfectly complements the wonderful food. We had the most fabulous evening dinner here, highly recommended.
Watch our hotel and room tour video here: www.instagram.com/littlewanderingwren/ManoirSaintJean/
Address: 3619 route de St Jean – 82400 Saint Paul d’espis – France
Website: www.manoirsaintjean.com
Ideas for further days Road tripping in Tarn and Garonne
Sadly, our road trip finished at this point. Below are the places we missed that have been recommended and that we would love to return to visit. You can extend your road trip as follows:
Auvillar – The Riverside Beauty
Auvillar is well regarded as a must-see destination in Tarn and Garonne. Not only is it classified as one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France, this city of pilgrims came in 4th place among the French people’s favourite villages.
Auvillar is soaring above the Garonne River and is known for the beautiful architecture of its pink Garonne stone houses.
What to see and do
Start at the old Convent of Ursulines, which houses the Tourist Information Centre (Office de Tourisme des Deux Rives – Bureau d’Auvillar) for useful what’s-on information and local maps.
Place de la Halle
The village’s main square is a must-see. It features a unique circular market hall (La Halle aux Grains) from the 19th century. This iconic structure, with its elegant columns and tile roof, is a testament to Auvillar’s rich trading history. and hosts a market on Sunday mornings.
Saint-Pierre Church
Visit this beautifully preserved 12th-century Romanesque church, which has a striking bell tower and ornate interior. Admire the beautiful stained glass windows and serene ambience.
Clock Tower (Tour de l’Horloge)
This impressive 17th-century tower, with its distinctive clock, once served as the village’s main gate. Climb to the top for a panoramic view of Auvillar and the surrounding countryside.
The Old Port and Garonne Views
Auvillar’s position above the Garonne River offers great views. Take a stroll down to the old port area, where you can enjoy stunning views over the Garonne River from the Esplanade du Port.
Valence d’Agen – A Hidden Gem
What to see and do
End your road trip in Valence d’Agen, a lesser-known but delightful town.
- Les Fontaines: The town is famous for its beautiful fountains scattered throughout its streets.
- Valence-d’Agen Market: Experience the local culture and flavours at the bustling weekly market.
- Canal des Deux Mers: Take a relaxing boat trip on this scenic canal.
Roquecor
Roquecor is a delightful village that’s perfect for a leisurely stroll or as a base for hiking in the surrounding area. Perched on a rocky spur 220 meters above sea level, Roquecor offers stunning views over the Petite Séoune valley. This charming village in the Southwest is highly recommended by locals who live in the region.
The village has a rich history, built around the 13th-century castles of Roquecor and Couyssels. Every Sunday from 9 AM to 12 PM, the farmers’ market takes over the village, offering a chance to discover local specialities and meet the producers. The Market Square serves as the village’s bustling hub, with the Café du Centre providing the perfect spot for a coffee or meal as you soak in the local atmosphere.
Don’t miss the “Lou Roc des Nobis” site, which includes intriguing caves and gardens. For a unique shopping experience, visit the Sapodouce soap factory, where you can find natural soaps and cosmetics crafted on-site.
Roquecor offers four hiking trails in and around the village, with many more options in the broader Pays de Serres en Quercy area. Details and a marked itinerary can be found here.
Au P’tit Moissac restaurant
As our friends described it, it has a wonderful setting, incredible food and atmosphere, and is a restaurant you should drive out of your way to enjoy!
Address: Estripeau. 82190 Touffailles.
How to get to the Tarn and Garonne region
By plane: Toulouse Blagnac International Airport, then by car as explained below.
By car: We had a hire car which we returned to Toulouse Airport. You can certainly get around between the main sights by train. However, we were very grateful for the freedom a car offered us to explore the regional sights as and when.
By train: How to get there: https://m.ter.sncf.com/occitanie
Final Thoughts
Tarn and Garonne may not be as well-known as other French regions, but this is what makes it so special. With a rich history, stunning landscapes, and charming towns, they offer a road trip experience that’s both relaxing and enriching. So, pack your bags, hit the road, and discover the hidden gem of Tarn and Garonne.
Disclosure: Little Wandering Wren was a Destination Occitanie guest exploring this region with Tourisme Tarn & Garonne. All opinions are my own. A grand merci beaucoup from us!
Follow us on Social Media: Find more photos of my travels and stories on Instagram @littlewanderingwren.
You may also enjoy the following:
Exploring Caussade: the heart of French hat making
Ferme de Lacontal a Lavender Lovers Delight
