We only just scratched the surface of Haute-Garonne in Occitanie, and we very much liked what we saw! It’s a beautiful part of Southwest France, a destination I will remember for offering us an insight into a slower pace of life, a part of the globe where nature takes centre stage. Join us as we share the region’s hidden treasures with this guide for what to see, do, and love in Haute Garonne.
We will explore some beautiful villages with immense histories as we take an interesting drive in search of dovecotes on the Pigeonniers & Pépites Discovery Tour. Amid the undulating countryside of the Lauragais, under the rising slopes of the Montagne Noire and with the source of the Canal du Midi to admire, we’ll discover the picturesque Sainte Ferreol Lake.
We will find Farmer’s markets and enjoy regional cuisine. At the undiscovered Domaine Bois de Deves, we will meet the winemaker, hear his surprising story, and taste interesting and delicious wines. Along our route, we will rest well in characterful local guest houses.
All this is before we arrive in its capital, Toulouse, the surprising and wonderful “pink city” with so much to admire.
Won’t you come for a wander with me?
Roadtrip Discovery Tour
Let’s start with a self-drive tour to discover the picturesque countryside of Haute Garonne. This was a day with a difference, along the small roads of the Hauts Tolosan region, searching for the various dovecotes (pigeonnier) and hidden treasures (pépites) in the area. Grab yourself the map here, and off you go: www.tourisme.hautstolosans.circuit_pigeonniers_pepites
This search for dovecotes dotted throughout the villages and countryside is a nod to the great importance of pigeon breeding in the past. Pigeons were bred for their delicate meat, which gourmets appreciated, and their droppings were also an excellent fertiliser.
The Pigeonniers were built and designed to show their owners’ wealth and social position, so expect to find some lovely chateaux and farms along the way.
Pigeonniers & Pépites routes
There are four panoramic driving tours to choose from.
Green Circuit “Echappée Verte”
Our morning tour was the green circuit. Starting from Launac, this scenic route travels back in time through a beautiful rural landscape dotted with parks, woodlands, market halls, churches, and castles with fantastic viewpoints.
Launac Village
Every Sunday morning, the Launac market takes place in its 19th-century hall. Here, a handful of market stalls sell an array of local produce, fruits and vegetables, cheeses and charcuterie, and flowers. In this peaceful village, we found our first Pigeonnier.
Château de Launac is an impressive building in the village centre. It regularly wins awards as a sought-after wedding venue. It is open to the public during the week but closed for weekend weddings.
Launac Chateau address: 1 Place de l’Église 31330 LAUNAC
The suggested restaurant is La Table de Launac: Rue Gaston Phoebus, 31330 Launac. Note: Menu du Jour Semaine Entree + plat + dessert €19. Closed Weekends
Pink Circuit “Route des Coteaux”
The afternoon tour is a second picturesque drive with must-see stops at:
Château & Parc de Laréole
We enjoyed wandering through the grounds of this ornate, striking, stripy castle made of alternating bricks and white stones to striking effect. The beautiful park’s grounds are quiet and peaceful, and entry is free.
The castle is open from May to September by reservation and offers guided tours, contemporary art exhibitions, and live shows.
Check out the booking details via the website: www.hautegaronnetourisme.com/activites/chateau-de-lareole.
Cadours
Next up is Cadours; look out for the famous Halle de Cadours, which resembles a Greek temple and dates back to 1830. This Halle aux Marchands, classified as a historical monument, was designed by the architect Cambon. Today, it welcomes traders from the weekly market and the festivals and events of Cadours. When we were there, there was a brocante (the French outdoor Flea market.)
Drudas
Drudas was a pleasant village for a wander with a large village green. Perhaps it is most well-known for the Château de Drudas. Formerly an aristocratic summer house, it’s now a 23-room luxury boutique hotel, its interiors restored to their former glory. We had hoped to have lunch here, but the restaurant, which looks lovely, was closed at the time of our visit.
Suggested restaurants: Le Verdurier, Drudas
Moulin de Brignemont
The Moulin de Brignemont is a popular site in Haute Garonne. Here, you can tour the 18th-century mill built from Toulouse bricks covered with lime, meet the miller, and learn about this ancient craft.
We were lucky to visit during the annual Fête de la Musique, which was absolutely packed and buzzing! In the grounds of the moulin was a wonderful Farmers market, a fabulous showcase of local products from regional producers. The windmill was a great concert venue for outdoor performances by local artists.
See the website for more details: www.moulindebrignemont.com
This brought us to the end of the Pigeonniers & Pépites tour through the villages and countryside of Haute Garonne. We’re not sure how many Pigeonniers we found; we lost count, but it certainly was a unique way to explore the region!
Domaine Bois de Deves
One of the highlights of our time in Haute Garonne was meeting the British winemaker Nicholas Smith, hearing his story about how he ended up here, touring his vineyard, and tasting the wines.
‘Nicholas Smith was travelling around France in a beat-up old van with his wife Pauline in the early twenty-teens when a realisation came to them: life in France producing your own wine is probably a better way of life than the other options open to them on the closure of the drums shop in Brighton where Nicholas had worked, living his musical dream with The Green Hornets…’
To be continued see the full blog post here: www.littlewanderingwren.com/domaine-bois-de-deves.
Address: Domaine Bois de Devès, 2255 Route de Fronton, 31620 Castelnau d’Estretefonds
Website: www.domaineboisdedeves.com
Le Conti Guinguette
Dinner at this pop-up restaurant and bar deep in the woods of rural Campsas was a unique and novel experience. After parking at the edge of a field, we ventured down a wooded path—though I almost needed a piggyback due to the flooded trails (a reminder of why Haute Garonne is so lush and green after some unseasonal heavy rainfall!).
Le Conti Guinguette offers a large shaded terrace immersed in nature. It is a fun spot with plenty of games for young and old, like ping-pong, swings, and foosball. A simple menu complements the dining experience.
Be sure to book ahead—this charming spot is a true hidden gem.
Address: Chemin de Bourgues, 82370 Campsas, France, Campsas, Francei
Website: www.facebook.com/groupeconti (Open in Summer months until Sept 15)
Espace Sport & Nature at Saint Ferreol Lake
St. Ferreol Lake is the headwater of the famous Canal du Midi, a 17th-century engineering marvel. Fed by the Laudot River from the Black Mountain, its water powers the canal’s many locks from Toulouse to the Mediterranean.
The Espace Sport & Nature Centre is located in the French Departments of Haute-Garonne, Aude, and Tarn. Here, you can enjoy many activities, such as paddleboarding, kayaking, and pedalos. We chose a kayak, though the pedalos with slides were tempting! Beautiful woods and grasslands surround the 170-acre lake, and you can explore much of it in an hour. Special thanks to Caroline and David at the centre for their warm hospitality!
For a break, walk the 4.7-kilometre path around the lake, which is shaded and scenic and offers stops for refreshments. We enjoyed lunch at Restaurant Le 20.
Don’t miss the nearby Museum which details the canal’s history and engineering and the nearby Garden of the Canal du Midi.
We loved this place so much that we wrote an entire blog post, which can be found here: www.littlewanderingwren.com/enjoying-the-great-outdoors-at-saint-ferreol-lake.
Address: 144 Rte de Carcassonne, 81540 Sorèze
Website: www.facebook.com/espacesportetnature
You can read more about the region via the facebook page of the Tourism department Aux sources de Midi www.facebook.com/Tourisme.AuxsourcesduCanalduMidi
Revel
Revel is one of those lovely medieval towns which is not to be missed. At it’s heart is a covered market which has been the centre of life in the town for hundreds of years and this remains the case today. You may wish to time your visit to enjoy the local Saturday market*
Founded in 1342 by King Philippe VI, much remains to give the visitor the feeling of stepping back in time. It’s one of those places where you want to wander around at your own pace. We were intrigued by the historic vessels that were used to measure the quantities of grain bought and sold in the ancient markets.
If the timing works, take a tour to explore the Revel Belfry 80 steps above and through the Tourist Information offices. The Belfy offers splendid views over “Aux sources du canal du Midi”. Thanks to Jerome, our excellent guide from the Tourism Office, we were able to observe the plain of Lauragais and the Black Mountain over the roofs of the town.
Guided tours take place every Saturday at 11 a.m. for €5 (free for children under 12), with express tours available upon request. This is a perfect stop for history lovers and market-goers alike!
Note: There was talk about future renovations of the Revel Belf and Tourism Office, so check before your visit.
Address: Beffroi Place Philippe VI de Valois, 31250 Revel
Website: www.auxsourcesducanaldumidi.com
Saint-Félix-Lauragais
The charming village of Saint-Félix-Lauragais is worth a wander through its cobbled streets to admire its half-timbered houses and fascinating history. The panoramic views of the Montagne Noire, the Pyrenees mountain range, and the Lauragais plain will impress.
Eglise Saint-Felix
Do not miss the superb 14th-century collegiate church and the central square with restaurants. If you like hiking this is an ideal base for the departure of many hiking trails.
Place Guillaume-Nogaret
The main market square is located in the centre of Saint-Félix-Lauragais and is surrounded by buildings with beautiful facades, a central monument, and a porticoed area typical in this region. There are also a few restaurants where you can drink or eat.
Saint-Félix-Lauragais Castle
The Château de Saint-Félix is a must-see while in the area. It was initially built in the 11th century and has undergone multiple transformations. It houses a Tourist Office, and we were lucky to be given a tour by Jessica, the knowledgeable and passionate tour guide at the Tourist Office, whose enthusiasm for the history of the place was infectious.
Our guided tour was an excellent way to learn about the Middle Ages, Renaissance, and 18th-century architecture of the castle. Not only did we learn the castle’s story, but we also got to enjoy the far-reaching views!
We thought it was fantastic that this historical monument has been public property since 1994. The château hosts cultural events, including an annual festival dedicated to the composer Déodat de Séverac, a native of the village (1872-1921).
Entry into the Castle is free, and what stands out most is how much of its history is still being unearthed. Visitors can explore its grand rooms, like the stunning mosaic hall, and enjoy stunning countryside views—perfect for photos!
Strolling around the grounds offers a glimpse into the life of nobles from centuries past.
Slow travel in Haute Garonne
Velorail du Lauragais
If you have never tried a Velorail, you should; this is a great way to enjoy being out in nature.
Velorails are special bikes designed to run on old railroad tracks. It’s a beautiful experience to enjoy a unique view of the local Lauragais countryside. This eco-friendly ride takes you through a historic, preserved environment. As you peddle along, listening to the bird song and cicadas, the Velorail offers an unusual and eco-friendly ride.
We last did this with the kids sitting in the back over twenty years ago, somewhere in France. Fast-forward to the summer of 2024, and we have a right laugh spending an afternoon on the velorail. The return trip was a delightful one-hour and fifteen-minute escapade.
The Velo bike is a great family-friendly activity, but it is also pretty cool for adults!
The Velorail bikes have two pedal-operated seats with a braking system at the front and seats behind. You need at least one adult to pedal, and they can accommodate up to four adults or two adults and three children.
The Velorail du Lauragais starts at Lac de Lenclas in the commune of St. Felix Lauragais, just 15 minutes from Lac de Saint Ferréol and Castelnaudary.
Website: www.veloraildulauragais.fr
Address: Lac de Lenclas 31540 Saint Felix Lauragais.
Opening hours April – mid-November: Open on weekends, Wednesdays and during school holidays. July and August: daily
Cost: Adult €14, Child (under 18 yrs) €7
Haute Garonne by Bike
Did you know you can cycle from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean Sea via Canal des 2 Mers? This would be my idea of slow-travel heaven, probably with much puff at its best!
‘This exceptional cycle route links the Atlantic and the Mediterranean seas. You can pedal for almost 800km beside the Canal de Garonne and the Canal du Midi, a World Heritage Site, to explore unforgettable landscapes and sites‘.
Website: www.canaldes2mersavelo.com.
Haute Garonne by Canal Boat
Having explored England’s waterways by canal boat, I am drawn to the idea of a narrowboat on Canal Du Midi. Boating in this way is a lovely way to connect with the natural surroundings along the waterside. You can go at your own speed, you don’t need a licence, you can stop to explore where you want… for more opportunities on offer for seeing the city and also the countryside, the Canal des Deux Mers and the Garonne in a different light check out:
www.hautegaronnetourism.com/the-haute-garonne-by-water
Toulouse
Toulouse is the capital of Haute-Garonne and the Midi-Pyrénées region. This beautiful pink city is renowned for its beautiful architecture and wondrous museums, but it is also full of surprises.
You can read more on our Toulouse blog post: Wonderful Weekend Wanders in Toulouse, France.
We found Toulouse wonderfully unexpected and were disappointed we did not allocate enough time to this beautiful city. Did you know Toulouse is a UNESCO City of Music? Neither did we. You are in the right place for music festivals and lively bars.
Toulouse is France’s fastest-growing and fourth-biggest city after Paris, Lyon, and Marseille. It has great museums. We especially enjoyed The Bamberg Foundation and the two Cathere’s temporary exhibitions at Musee Saint Raymond and the Jacobins Convent.
La Halle de La Machine
Toulouse is famed as a centre for aeronautical, science, and space. We spent a fun morning at the wonderous La Halle de La Machine, where the machines come alive!
Website: https://www.halledelamachine.fr/
Address: 3, Avenue de l’Aérodrome de Montaudran, 31400 Toulouse
Taste of Toulouse Wine Bar Tour
Jessica Hammer is on a mission to introduce the gastronomic delights of Toulouse to curious visitors through her Taste of Toulouse.
This tour includes visiting the best wine bars in Toulouse as part of Jessica’s effort to introduce her customers to the delights of wine. Jessica pitches the tour to all levels, from wine connoisseurs to casual beginners.
This highly recommended tour takes a couple of hours and involves visiting a selection of wine bars. We visited Au Pere Louis, Maison Sarment, and Le 5 Wine Bar.
Where to Stay
Domaine Codeval – Fronton
Domaine Codeval is a charming guesthouse in the heart of the Fronton wine region, set on a beautifully restored former vineyard estate. It combines authentic charm with modern comfort and is surrounded by 2 hectares of peaceful land. The property is also thoughtfully designed to accommodate guests with disabilities.
Guests can relax by the pool with views of the vineyards, explore the local Frontonnais wineries, or enjoy the pétanque court. Sylvie and Pascal, the warm and welcoming hosts, ensure every stay is memorable.
Our spacious room, overlooking the vineyards, offered a peaceful retreat, and the homemade breakfast, featuring treats like plum clafoutis from their garden, was a highlight.
Domaine Codeval features air-conditioned rooms, free Wi-Fi, private parking, and plenty of outdoor space. Activities like hiking nearby make it an ideal place to unwind and enjoy the region’s natural beauty.
Address:Domaine Codeval, Chemin des Acacias, 31620 Fronton
Website: www.domainedecodeval.com
Auberge du Poids Public – Saint Felix Lauragais
This charming guest house, perched on a hill in the medieval village of Saint Felix Lauragais, was a very pleasant stay. The room was lovely, the beds were comfortable, and we loved the location.
The restaurant is famed for its cassoulet, which has won several awards. Unfortunately, the restaurant was closed the day we stayed, but if you get the chance, try it out!
We enjoyed their breakfast on the panoramic terrace, which had a pretty view of the Lauragais plain. Our continental breakfast was a lovely start to the day, with cereals, nuts, and yoghurts, freshly baked bread, croissants, brioche, cheeses and meats, and an assortment of fresh fruits and juices.
Address: Auberge du Poids Public , 26 Rte de Toulouse, 31540 Saint-Félix-Lauragais.
Website: www.auberge-du-poids-public.fr
Hotel Albert Premier – Toulouse
This hotel was chosen as the perfect Toulouse city centre hotel for our stay, and it was! The hotel is privately owned, and the rooms are charming and well-appointed. The hotel is three stars, so it doesn’t have a swimming pool or a gym, but it comes with a five-star location, minutes from Place du Capital, and the staff is really helpful. Walk out the door to the right to find Victor Hugo Market and our favourite Brasserie Chez Marcel to the left. Extra touches we appreciated were the city map with their recommendations and the fruit-inspired water at reception. The locally inspired breakfast was another highlight.
If you would like to see more from our stay at Albert Premier Hotel, see our short YouTube below:
Address: Hotel Albert Premier, 8 Rue Rivals, Toulouse
Website: www.hotel-albert1.com
Getting here
By Air:
The nearest Airport is Toulouse Blagnac. Flights to 85 destinations worldwide include Bristol, Birmingham, Dublin, and Edinburgh. There are 21 flights per week to London, and 10 flights a week are to Montreal, Canada. Flights can also be found from and to Dubai and Doha.
Website: www.toulouse.aeroport.fr
By Train:
The central Matabiau SNCF railway station is in Toulouse city centre.
By Bus:
With Ouibus, Flixbus or Eurolines Bus station address: 68 Boulevard Pierre Sémard 31000 Toulouse.
Rental Car:
We rented our car with Europcar and returned it to their depot at Toulouse Airport. Having a car is useful in this region.
Toulouse Tourism website: www.toulouse-tourisme.com/en/prepare-for-your-stay
Final Thoughts
Haute Garonne is a fabulous area for those who know and love France and want to discover more. It is a land full of surprises and hidden gems. If you love being out in the great outdoors and enjoy learning about its rich history via its medieval towns and villages, you will find something here for all. We had such a great time, we hope this guide to what we saw to do, see and love gives you a taste of the region. Take your time, and travel at a slow pace; we may this beautiful region surprise and delight you as much as it did us.
Disclosure: Little Wandering Wren was a Destination Occitanie guest exploring this region with Haute Garonne Tourism. All opinions are my own. A grand merci beaucoup from us!
Follow us on Social Media: Find more photos of my travels and stories on Instagram @littlewanderingwren.
For more information on the Haute-Garonne region, see Enjoying the Great Outdoors at Saint Ferreol Lake or Visiting Domaine Bois des Deves And Weekend Wanders in Toulouse.
6 comments
Hello Wren,
What a beautiful trip, so many lovely sights to see. I would love the pop up restaurant in the woods and the winery. Lovely collection of photos. Take care, have a great day and a happy week ahead.
Thank you so much Eileen so much to see, do and love in Haute Garonne. This region was new to us this year and we loved discovering it’s many hidden charms. Thanks for reading and your lovely comment.
Have a great week!
Wren x
What a beautiful part of France you discovered Jenny! Really enjoyed reading this blog
Thank you Inge. Haute Garonne was a wonderful discovery from start to finish, I can highly recommend, not so far from Belgium.
Have a great day.
Wren x
Having trouble with comments?!
A good read.
All the best Jan
I’m so glad you enjoyed reading this, we found Haute Garonne was a really interesting place, we loved our wanders here. Looking for those Dovecotes was a bit like playing the I Spy game of my childhood, if you remember this? Such a fun road trip around a lesser known area of France.
Take care
Wren x