Weekend Wanders: Cycling Sukhothai Staycation

This weekend’s Thailand Staycation took us to the small city of Sukhothai with a big history.

Let’s go explore the park. Not just any old park, but ????????’? ?????? ????? ???????? ????????? ?????????? P???!

Photo credit: Mr Wren

???????? ???? ???, ? ???? ??? ??? ?? ???? ??? ?????? ????? ???????? ???? ?? ??? ????????? ??????? ???????????. Little Wandering Wren

Won’t you take a wander with me and I’ll show you around?

Why visit?

‘It’s a golden opportunity to journey off the well-trodden tourist trail, and into the backyard of Thailand. Warm smiles from friendly locals plus unique sights, sounds, smells and experiences await you around every corner.‘ (Cycling Sukhothai)

Sukothai, which translates to Dawn of Happiness, was a 13th-century town which became the capital of the first truly independent Thai (Siamese) Kingdom after defeating the then Khmer Governor.

Thais are very proud of this first capital and its associated history and architecture.  There are nearly 200 temples in total on 70 km2 spread out across five zones. 

Unlike its more popular younger sister of Ayutthaya (Thailand’s second capital of Ancient Siam) which is closer to Bangkok, you will find Sukhothai more off the beaten track and worth the schlep!

Where is Sukhothai?

The province of Sukhothai is in the lower north of Thailand.  The provincial capital of Sukhothai has a new city and old Sukhothai about 10 minutes apart by car. Sukhothai is 427 km north of Bangkok and 300 km south of Chiang Mai.

How to get there?

BY CAR

For us, this was our first major road trip driving in Thailand. The job comes with a car and a driver so it was not until Bangkok’s lockdown that self-driving was necessitated if we wanted to get anywhere without risking public transport. Having gained confidence on the empty roads of Bangkok Mr Wren was now ready to tackle a BIG road trip.

The drive took 5 hours 30 minutes with a Saturday mid-morning departure, the return trip at the end of an extended holiday weekend took 7 hours 30 minutes.

Thailand has the second-highest road traffic fatality rate in the world. Particularly vulnerable road users include motorcyclists, pedestrians and bicyclists which comprise 83% of the fatalities.

I would not suggest driving yourself unless you are a confident driver on Asian roads. Road users are unpredictable, they drive fast and leave little space between vehicles. However, one particularly nice aspect of Thai driving is for all this, they are as a nation very relaxed behind the wheel – there is no road rage here. Well apart from me, as a passenger indignant at some of the lousy driving!

BY TAXI

Our friends rented a minibus for the weekend which cost 13,000 Baht (415 USD.) This included a return trip from Bangkok and use of the car and driver over the four days.

BY AIR

There are regular flights from Bangkok to Sukhothai. The flight takes 1 hour 20 minutes. The airport is about 30km from the Historical Park. A 30-minute taxi ride costs around 1,300 – 1,700 Baht.

BY TRAIN

There are no trains in Sukhothai, the nearest train station is located in the town of Phitsanulok which is one hour (60 km) by bus to Sukhothai.

What to see and do?

You could spend weeks enjoying everything in ?????????, we only had a couple of days. To make it easy on ourselves we joined a bicycle tour.

Cycling Sukothai Full-Day Historical Park Tour

We were picked up at our hotel at 8 am for this brilliant 6-hour Historical Park tour including lunch, by a company, we can thoroughly recommend called Cycling Sukhothai.

A bike tour is seriously the best way to see the vast historical park. There is nothing like peddling amongst the immense history of the Sukhothai area. There are 193 ruins. It’s so much easier and cooler, peddling than walking, between sites. Because no cars are allowed inside the old city walls, it’s a pleasant cycle. For those who prefer not to pedal, you can rent a tuk-tuk buggy.  

We would not have seen so much or learned so much about the history, architecture and Buddism on our own. It was great just to follow our Thai guide Mem who had a well-planned route. Mem gave us just enough information, so we enjoyed all the major sites – without being templed-out!

The well maintained 24-speed mountain bikes came already sized for us (we supplied our heights beforehand), hats were provided.

Cost:  990 Baht per person

Here are some of our favourite things we saw  :

WALKING BUDDHA SUKHOTHAI STYLE

The graceful, clothes draped loosely around the body images of the Buddha were popular during this Sukhothai era and they are an appealing sight.

Walking Buddha as found at Chao Sam Phraya National Museum

Elephant encircled chedis

We find the chedi on a square base out of which the elephants protrude. Elephants are a sign of strength in Buddhism and act as guardians protecting the temples Wat Chang Lom (East Zone) This temple is a large group of ancient monuments, with a main bell-shaped chedi with 32 elephant sculptures.

Khmer Style TEMPLES

These are the oldest styles in the historical park and built when Sukhothai was an outpost of the Khmer empire in Angkor. Our guide, Mem, tells us the Khmer style is easy to recognise as they look like pineapples.  These were originally built as Hindu shrines dedicated to Shiva.

Sri Satchanalai Historical PArk

We did not visit Sri Satchanalai the sister city of Sukhothai but wished we had. By all accounts, friends have loved the off the beaten path feel of these quiet and beautiful surroundings. There is both the historical park and the national park to explore.

Sri Satchanalai is located about 60 km north of Sukhothai near the mountains on the Yom river valley.

Cycling Sukothai Countryside Sunset Tour

The next day we took the evening Countryside Sunset Tour with Koi. Another fabulous experience, even if the tour which included a cockfighting breeding farm and a rat farm. Who knew that rat meat is a lucrative trade with Japan?  tad confronting at times, luckily there were enough soothing paddy fields to keep me chilled on the 20 km ride.

We really go deep into the countryside using tracks and trails used by the farmers themselves that zig-zag and swing alongside canals, rice fields passing authentic villages and local temples.

Koi is well known in the villages that we cycle through she rings her bell and the villagers’ wave and smile, some comment on how they haven’t seen her with a tour for months. They ask about us and she explains to the villagers that whilst we are Farang (foreigners) we are long term Thailand residents and not in any way at risk of bringing COVID-19 with us!

This tour was memorable and fun. However, if I was to return, I would probably switch this for the Historical Park Sunset Tour as I just would never get enough of these wonderful temples and I think you can see nicer “prettier” countryside elsewhere in Thailand. One thing is sure though if you are looking for an authentic peek into Thai countryside living, presented as it is, rats and all, then go for it!

Cost: 450 Baht per person

Where to go shopping?

I am so grateful that we ended up in Sukhothai with some knowledgeable “shopper” friends. Popular buys include the Walking Buddha – the best-known example of the Sukhothai Style

Suthep Sangkalok CErAMICS

Address: 276 Mueang Kao, Mueang Sukhothai District, Sukhothai 64210 Tel 086 166 1370

Google map reference found here: 

Following the traditions of the old Sangkalot potters, worth a visit if you’re after some traditionally made ceramics. Reasonably priced, family-owned business. They package things up well for travel. Go with strong will power, you will be tempted!

WOOD CRAFTS SHOP:

Found on Route 12 Mueang Kao, Mueang Sukhothai District.

The wood craft shop (sorry not sure of the name!) was close to the 7-11 on the main road to the Historical Park entrance by the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum. It is found opposite the Police station and the market.

Just look at all these beauties, it might be a tad tricky to find but it sure is worth hunting out.

Google map reference to the shop next door called Teenee Sukhothai is found here:

Photo credit: Henny Haryaty

Where to stay?

Our guides told us that most visitors choose to stay in the new town of Sukhothai, but for us, it was important to be close to the historical park.

Legendha Historical Park Resort Sukhothai

A 3-Star Thai Village opposite the fabulous ??? ????? ???, ask for a temple view room!

Our 3 nights at Legendha Sukhothai cost 5200 Baht (56 USD per night) including breakfast.

✅The bright Thai style bedroom, with a comfortable king-size bed (some mattresses in Thailand can be so hard, not this one!) with a pool and temple view.

✅Thai inspired decor though out the resort.

✅ Swimming pool and jacuzzi perfect for a plunge after a hot day cycling around the ruins.

✅ Happiest spa staff who gave very good massages.

✅ Beautiful hotel grounds and gardens,

✅ Coconut hot cakes at breakfast!

For further information: Legendha Sukhothai website

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: SAWASDEE SUKHOTHAI RESORT

Praised for its exceptional service described as exotic and luxurious, it sounded my cup of tea when recommended by friends! Word has obviously got out about this resort which was fully booked during our visit.

For further information: Sawasdee Sukhothai Resort 

Extra Tips

When to go?

High season in Thailand, with the best, as in coolest weather, is Nov to February.

The months of March to June are hot and travelling during this period to Sukhothai is unfavourable. Expect these Central Plains of Thailand, to feel hotter than in Bangkok. I can vouch for Sukhothai being blooming hot even in the cooler rainy season!

July to October, Sukhothai receives rainfall and sightseeing might become difficult. We travelled in July and the rains did not stop us doing anything

During the rainy season, everything is green and lush!

WHAT TO PACK

Pack your best temple attire as in modest, respectful and cool and mossie repellant – the bugs are ferocious in Sukhothai. I’m told it’s because us Farang don’t eat enough chilli and we taste nice and sweet!

I hope you have enjoyed this wander throughout Sukhothai. Please save for future reference and share with others who may be interested. Have fun on your wanders! If you have been here for a virtual tour from far away, thank you too!

If you have enjoyed this post you might enjoy more on ??? ????? ??? Elephant Prayers for the World.

For more Thailand staycations please see Our Best Bangkok Staycations and Kanchanburi Staycation.

Linking with thanks to Angie at Mosaic Monday and Lady Fi and all the hosts at Our World Tuesday.