Wonderful Weekend Wanders 500 Rai Floating Resort, Khao Sok, Thailand

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Bless you, world, for sending me 500 Rai Floating Resort for a last Thailand hurrah.  After six years based in the Land of Smiles, it is time to spread our wings and see more of the world. This was the best send-off! We were happy to return to one of our favourite haunts, the spectacular Khao Sok National Park in Southern Thailand. [Updated June 2024]

What makes 500 Rai so special?

This invitation for a three-day, two-night stay offered us what we love most about Thailand: an unforgettable resort, incredible scenery, and an opportunity to explore the country’s wildlife.

Whizzing through the calm waters of Cheow Lan Lake, surrounded by wondrous cliffs and magnificent mountains, will stay with me forever. I voted it my most memorable stay of the year here in my Good Hotel Guide.

We arrive at 500 Rai Khao Sok Floating Resort with massive grins. It’s only lunchtime, but we’ve already had a BIG adventure. The Khao Sok National Park is a little trickier to get to than other national parks in Thailand but it is worth it.

How to get to 500 Rai Floating Resort

The hotel organises direct pick-up from your hotel or the Phuket, Krabi, or Surat Thani airport. This is the easiest way to get to Ratchaprapha Reservoir (Cheow Lan Lake).

For more, see the 500 Rai website.

Resort pick up Phuket

The hotel picks us up in a private minibus from our Phuket resort on the day of the Bang Tao Triathlon. Ha! That’s a recipe for massive congestion. The roads are super busy at one point. I pondered if it might have been better for us to leap out and attempt our own athletic dash, runners on, and swim to the resort. With skilful coordination, the driver arrives at the Khao Sok National Park boat ramp in the nick of time, and we leg it to the boat.

The total journey time from Surin Beach, Phuket, to Khao Sok, was three hours and 30 minutes (including a traffic delay and restroom break).

Long-tail boat ride from Ratchaprapa pier 

The beauty of 500 Rai Resort is that this small resort offers a personal touch. On the boat, a handful of other adventurers sit patiently waiting for us latecomers.

It’s one of those tricky moments when you smile at the other assembled guests, hoping they understand that once you’ve missed the boat, it’s a palaver, either expensive or at least a long wait to make your own way there. The beauty of 500 Rai is that it is remote. You do not want to miss the boat.

We apologise and speed off, enjoying the cool breeze in the stonking heat.

The boat takes a detour en route into a secluded bay for a scenic photo shoot, and we are soon taking each other’s photos as if we are long-lost friends. By the time we disembark, the splendour of the Khao Sok scenery has woven its charms. It is beyond drop-dead gorgeous.

It’s one of those ‘Glad that I live am I‘ places.

Total journey time: One hour 30 mins (including photo stop)

The 500 Rai Floating Resort

500 Rai Floating Resort is notable as it appears on the horizon. You don’t pass too many other resorts on the journey; certainly not too many look this gorgeous. We note that Khao Sok and its off-the-beaten-track location attract backpackers; much of the accommodation caters to this market.

As we dock, the appealing villas stretch out behind the restaurant and its beautiful, gleaming white dining area. This is a luxury eco-resort with all mod cons. We were certainly grateful for our electricity and air conditioning, and no, I’m not questioning how this fits with an eco-resort!

The dark wooden villas, connected by a walkway behind the rooms, are in keeping with the local area. Two separate suites are floating further out in the lake. One is a family suite, and the other is a Deluxe suite. Both look gorgeous, and I love kayaking across to the main resort each morning for brekkie!

We are greeted by the staff, who insist there’s no rush. There is nowhere to go until our sunset cruise, and we are offered lunch before making our way to our villa.

500 Rai Villa

Exploring our villa doesn’t take long, although we do have an upstairs accessed via a ladder so you’d need to be reasonably fit to scale this – it’s perhaps great for a family with teenage children but not your 90-year-old grandma unless she was an Olympic gymnast!

I love the connection with the water location; every time a boat passes close by, the room rocks.

The room has a traditional Thai style; it’s creaky but in an at-one-with-nature sort of a good way. This is not uber high-end luxury. Remember, this resort operates remotely and tries to be as eco as possible. You won’t find the extra electricity burners of fridges or a Nespresso machine, for instance, in the room, although we were surprised not to find a bar of hand soap in the shower.

The lighting at night is subdued, and this is not the place to come if you need a good reading light, but it does add to the romantic atmosphere!

The toilet and shower are on separate sides of the villa. They are fully screened but open-air—keep your toilet seat down! One of my favourite memories was peeping out at the misty mountain view from the shower.

That view!

The villas are designed so the star of the show is the view.

It’s the first thing we noticed as we walked in. The floor-to-ceiling doors open onto our private pontoon. The wooden floors feel cool and smooth underfoot as we kick off our shoes at the doorway. Someone thoughtfully turned on the air conditioning whilst we finished lunch. Our own yellow kayak bobs temptingly in the water just beyond the bamboo platform, and we see our life jackets hanging from a hook.

Sunrise

We get up at 6 a.m. daily just to see the not-to-be-missed sunrise and misty mountains in our pyjamas! We discover we’re not alone and wave cheerily at our neighbours. Even more exciting was the discovery that the coffee machine is up and running early. Now, if you could dial in your cup of tea or coffee to enjoy in your room, that would be magic!

It is hard to tear yourself away from that view…

Spa Massage

On the second afternoon, we book an in-room massage. Our therapist arrives with everything needed, and each villa has its own massage mat tucked away, which she lays on the bed. It was lovely to have this option after our trekking morning.

Dining at Talay Nai Restaurant

You can’t dial up a takeaway or easily head to the nearest restaurant, so it’s a good job that the food at 500 Rai is tasty. Our all-inclusive package filled our tummies with hearty Southern Thai food, although it was not Michelin-starred standard and a few items were out of stock. We recognise that every morsel we eat needs to be boated in!

Tip! I suggest booking a package with food included, as the costs of food and drink will add up if bought separately. Do not forget the Happy Hour between 3 and 5 p.m.

Swimming pool

The swimming pool is a great way to feel like you are swimming in the lake without swimming in the lake, for those of us who might be wary of toe-nibbling fish and wild swimming. It’s right on the resort’s edge in front of the restaurant, so it might feel that folks are looking at you, but they are not. Well, it depends on what you’re up to, but generally, it’s ALL about the view again.

Disconnect to reconnect!

Don’t come here if you’re addicted to wifi; the whole premise of the place is that you separate yourself from this to be fully in the moment. Wifi is available but at an exorbitant cost. So the message is to break the habit and do without for a few days. Unless it’s great Aunt Sallie’s 100 birthday, in which case you have the option.

Khao Sok National Park

The Park is regarded as one of the world’s oldest evergreen rainforests. Deep in the Khao Sok Jungle are rare and beautiful plants and animals. Over 50 types of mammals and 300 bird species call Khao Sok home, and several endemic orchids and palm trees.

Activities at 500 Rai Floating Resort

If you can, book a stay with excursions to explore the National Park. They are worth including in your booking. The park is as lovely as the resort, and it is nice to get out wandering. You can kayak, swim, take a long-tail boat, or join one of the resort tours.

Wildlife Safari tours

I’ll let Mr. Wren, my husband, and our resident zoologist tell you all about the wildlife:

‘The stunning scenery is the highlight of your stay at 500 Rai. The majestic lake is reminiscent of Halong Bay in Vietnam, and for budding zoologists, the National Park is a haven for wildlife. A must-do is to take a long-tailed boat ride either at dusk or dawn to go animal spotting. 

Sunset Wildlife Safari

In Khao Sok National Park, wildlife animals are spotted along the lake shore all year round. The 500 Rai guided tours start at 05.00 PM on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. I was initially, ‘Is that it?’ After we returned, having seen an eagle, some hornbills, and a few cows. I was told firmly that those aren’t any old cows!

Mr Wren takes up the story:

‘We glide in close to the shore to see a large herd of gaur. Large ponderous cows, often called Indian bison, observe us quizzically before lumbering into the jungle. It is a special moment, given that only about a thousand are left in Thailand.

We then look skywards to see pied hornbills commuting between their favourite trees and hear a rustling high up in the jungle canopy – the telltale sign of gibbon activity. Suddenly, spotting them – a family of white-handed gibbons – swinging effortlessly through the trees. They stop as we move closer. Their white-framed faces turn to scrutinise us before deciding we are no threat and resume their journey.‘

Note from 500 Rai: Gaurs are mostly spotted during the summer season, but you can even be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of wild elephants, wild boars, and hornbills.

Dawn Wildlife Safari

‘On the morning trip, you rise with the sun, climbing over the mountains and bringing the park to life. In the early quiet, the boat engine seems deafening, and you wonder how any animals will ever stay around to pose for our cameras amidst the noise. However, they must be either deaf, used to the noise, or too busy going about their business to notice’.

The Staff on board has binoculars and is masterful at seeking out the wildlife hidden in the dense forest. We pass the binoculars and see the gibbons enjoying their early morning routines.

Trekking Tour

Pa Ka Rang Trekking and Cave

Our day tour to an inner lake (Talay Nai) is a great choice. After a short ride across the lake, a longtail boat drops you at a remote Khao Sok park entrance point. We’ve been to Khao Sok before, but staying on the lake really gives you a deeper insight into lake life and a better appreciation of its enormity.

While our park entry fee was paid—yes, there are park rangers in this remote part of Thailand—we had a chance to use the facilities before we started our jungle trekking. I was amazed at how some people managed to trek in flip-flops. I was glad I took a stick found at the park entrance and had an old pair of trainers on.

We stopped along the route for the guide to point out elephant tracks and to tell us about the wildlife and fauna spotted along the way. It’s a short 1.5 km along a well-worn path amidst the dense jungle, although it feels hard in the humid conditions.

Taking a bamboo raft and cave exploring.

We have to wait a while whilst a party of French people takes the last bamboo raft ahead of us. The waiting area has posters of wildlife to peruse while waiting.

I liked the bamboo raft; it felt like we’d been transported back a few generations. Despite its rickety appearance, it got us safely to the cave entrance. This cave was formed under the ocean almost 250 million years ago.

We clamber up to the limestone cave, and the staff points out the interesting designs of the stalactites and stalagmites still growing inside.

We were lucky it was dry underfoot. On our last Khao Sok trek in the jungle in the rainy season. I’d given up in a downpour, which reminds us of why it’s called a RAINforest, at the point of needing to wade through water up to my muddle!

So be prepared and pack accordingly!

Is 500 Rai Floating Resort for you?

But it depends on what type of traveller you are. You are staying in a National Park, sharing this very special corner of the world with nature and, yes, maybe the odd gecko in your bathroom. Will you be charmed or revolted by this?

If you want everything immaculate, your air conditioner super cool, and your shower super hot with all the latest toiletries, consider whether a lake stay is the best option.

However, if you want an immersive experience, you can do so at one with nature, waking to the most incredible view in the world. If you want to be served local Thai food by staff who may not be fluent in your language, will you think this is a fantastic opportunity or be floored?

Do your research and decide whether this is the location for you.

The cost of 500 Rai

500 Rai is an expensive and exclusive stay compared to your resort in Phuket or Krabi. However, having been there, I can see how they incur additional costs due to their remoteness.

The Guests at 500 Rai

500 Rai attracts a wide guest list. A Father and Son are motorbiking their way around Asia on their first epic post-pandemic adventure, a Thai family from Bangkok who’ve seen 500 Rai on social media and knew they wanted to stay, and a mega important Insta couple with a gazillion followers and a very small bikini who were lovely and took a couple of my photos!

How long do you spend in Khao Sok National Park?

Arrange to have 2-3 nights. One night is doable, but you will regret it. Part of the charm is just being there, and it’s a trip to get there, even with door-to-door transport. (highly recommended) 

The Details

Khao Sok is best reached from Phuket, Krabi, Koh Lak, or Surat Thani. The closest airport is Surat Thani. Local transport does not run to Khao Sok, but you could get a shared minibus from any of these towns. You can get there easily via the 500 Rai minibus. I know what I’d rather do.

500 Rai Resort is located at Ratchaprapha Reservoir (Cheow Lan Lake) in the Koh Sok National Park.

Contact:
Phone: +66 7795 3013
E-mail: reservations@500rai.com

Website: 500 Rai Floating Resort

Final Thoughts

Thailand is the land of drop-dead gorgeous hotels and resorts. 500 Rai Floating Resort wasn’t the most luxurious hotel stay we’ve ever had, but it might be one of the most luxurious stays you will find on the lake. It was our most memorable stay of 2022 in an utterly breathtaking way.

This resort ticks both our boxes for what we are looking for from our weekend wanders. While I’m all about the accommodation, Mr Wren, my resident zoologist, is all about wildlife. We’re both all about nature. There is something about the lake and rainforest in Khao Sok National Park that is so rejuvenating.

We leave 500 Rai Floating Resort feeling awed by the region’s beauty and privileged to have seen some of the animals that call it home.

Disclaimer: Little Wandering Wren was an invited guest of 500 Rai Floating Resort. All thoughts and opinions are my own.

For more thoughts and opinions, check out Truly Expat Travel’s stay in May 2024.

For more in Southern Thailand, see:

• La Moet Boat Tour Phuket
• Live Like Locals Phuket
• 500 Rai @Littlewanderingwren IG

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